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  • Danny_Integra
    started a topic Lsv assembly

    Lsv assembly

    Hi I've been looking around and haven't found anything but hopefully someone in here can shed some light on an issue I am having.

    I am putting together a B18B1 bottom end that I got balanced the beginning of 2017 with new King bearings and ARP main studs and an aftermarket girdle witch sits on top of the main caps so I am using GSR ARP main studs because of the girdle. The whole time these parts sat they were cleaned and bagged and stored inside in a spare room.

    Once I get to the 2nd torque sequence for the ARP specs (witch are 30-60-80) it takes about 50 to 60 fp with a 3 foot pry bar to get the crank to spin (not normal already) and when it does get spinning you can feel resistance and you can also hear a very faint grind. strike 2 this is extra heat next thing you know bye bye bearings

    After that I decided to just go ahead and do the last step of 80 pounds and I couldn't move the crank what so ever I applied well over the 80 pounds that it calls for the harmonic balance bolt and it would not budge at all.

    At this point I went ahead and checked clearance and all the way across it read .001 and I know that's way to little what can my issue be? I also went ahead and torqued the main caps to Hondas specs and still got the same clearance with the same effect as well.

    This is a link to the same set of King main bearings I bought https://www.ebay.com/itm/King-Rod-Ma...4383.l4275.c10

    Hopefully this is my only obstacle on this build and can figure out the problem so I can finally get back in my car its been way to long lol
    Would you guys say I got the wrong set of bearings in? I know the crank cant be bent in anyway sense it was balanced or should I try another crank just for the heck of it and see how that goes?
    Last edited by Danny_Integra; 08 Jan 2018, 21:31:50.

  • Danny_Integra
    replied
    Yea the more I searched I found that if you wanna use the ARP main studs it's best to get it line honed if you wanna torque it down the ARP Specs at 80lb max... I torqued mine at honda specs following my homies advice cause of same issue on his LSV turbo and his is up & running just fine besides the need of a tune. So mine spins nice how its supposed to at the Honda specs.

    I'd double check oil clearance and proceed to figure out what clearance you want then order accordingly there's a formula that they have for this I can't remember where I found it I'll look around.
    Althou the shop that's doing the line hone sho uld provide you with this now that I think about it.

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  • jayrod1240
    replied
    Hi guys i ran into the same issue with the crank not spinning freely enough. Im building a b18c block with 84mm Darton sleeves 89mm Scat light weight crank . Bc Pro 625+ Ls length Rods with Cp 7017 9.7.1 pistons with upgraded wrist pins. I also
    up graded my mains with Arp studs and It basically locked up the assembly. Having it align honed as we speak.

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  • Danny_Integra
    replied
    The only reason I got ARP studs is becaus of the after market girdle & I simply didn't have the OEM set. As far as power goes I'm going to keep it N/A for a while then then go turbo eventually and this build is intended for a daily and track abuse so I'm still iffy on the boosting. One of my homies is doing the same LSV set up going straight to boost and was also having my same issue with clearance so he just went with OEM specs on his ARP main studs and it feels fine he says but I'm still a bit iffy about that. How ever what you said about the arp specs at 80 pounds does make sense and its not the first time i hear it so I guess I may end up needing to line hone or just wait & see how my homies motor runs in the next week or so.

    ... Well my Homie got his car running and it seems fine to him but agues only time will tell and power.
    Last edited by Danny_Integra; 01 Mar 2018, 16:34:43.

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  • MyFirstDA9
    replied
    Hey Danny, I'm actually in the process of starting an LS-Vtec build for my 91. I'm using a 99 B18B1 and GSR head. when talking to the machine shop, I was asking about if I should also replace my main bolts with ARP studs. He had said that the stock main bolts can handle in excess of 700HP, and additional work is required, so I should not need to replace them, especially since my end goal is a N/A daily driver , spirited drive. When I had done further research into replacing the main bolts with ARP studs, it looks like you need to have the main bores to be line honed for straightness, as the excessive torque from the ARP studs can cause out of round.
    I'm no professional in engine building so I could be wrong, but that's what after a few hours of searching pulled up for me a few weeks ago

    best of luck

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