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automatic to manual swap (auto - 5spd conversion writeup)

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  • Good luck. I'll be doing it too starting end of June. I have been gathering parts for a year now. A built up LSVTEC is going in with it.
    1956 Ford F100 Custom pickup, Chevy powered
    1992 Integra GS LS/VTEC
    2015 Porsche Macan (Arriving Jul 2014)

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    • Wish me luck. I going to start on the pedals tomorrow. If I can get it done by Saturday, a fresh engine (with a built bottom end) and 5 speed are going in Sunday. After break-in the the next phase will be boost. I'll be glad when this is all over. 2 years of parts collecting and assembly is starting to wear me down.

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      • Keep us posted on progress and issues. Good luck.
        1956 Ford F100 Custom pickup, Chevy powered
        1992 Integra GS LS/VTEC
        2015 Porsche Macan (Arriving Jul 2014)

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        • Well I got the pedals in.
          Here is what there is to look forward to.

          STEP ONE: remove lower dash panels and center console.

          Before getting started on the underside of the dash, I removed the seat and laid an old sleeping bag down. I basically laid on my back with my feet up on the rear seats to do this.


          STEP TWO: drop steering column
          There are five bolts/nuts that hold the column place.
          Start with this one. I believe is where the column pivots when tilting the column up/down. The column is supported at this point as well. It is the bolt that goes side to side in the picture between the white bracket.


          Here are the other four (2 studs/nuts and 2 bolts). Gold/brass coloured ones. (Sorry for the blurry picture - too close to get the camera to focus)


          TIP: Make sure you are clear of the steering column when you undo the last few bolts. It's not heavy but heavy enough that it's cumbersome to handle. You might also try to loosen as many of the pedal nuts as you can (but don't remove right away). Once the column is dropped it sort of gets in the way.

          Here is the column dropped.


          STEP THREE: remove old pedals
          EDIT : There are 6 bolts to undo here. You can see the obvious ones in this picture. Note that these 4 studs are actually part of the brake booster in the engine bay. I was careful not to push them in just in case I couldn't get them to come back out. The 5th one is the stud down and to the right.


          There is one bolt that is hidden near the top of the bracket. You'll see a slotted brace at the top of the pedal assembly bracket in this picture of the two pedal assemblies sitting side by side.

          Anyways, the bolt that holds the brace is hidden behind the heater ducts. You will have to carefully, but forcefully remove the heat ducts to get at this last bolt. Once the heater ducts are removed it is clear sailing to get the pedals out. Disconnect the cable(s) for the gas pedal. Remove the cotter pin and pop the pin out on the brake pedal. Remember to undo the auto ECU as well, it is the gold/brass box to the left of the pedal assembly. It's bolted in in three spots.

          MISC TIPS:
          If your car currently has cruise control, you might want to make sure the manual pedals you get are from a car that has cruise as well. I didn't make that connection so I might not be keeping my cruise now. Apparently there is an additional cable the runs from the cruise control unit in the engine bay to an additonal lever on the gas pedal. The 5 speed pedal assembly that I have doesn't have this extra lever.
          EDIT: I may have found a fix for this. I butchered the old pedal set from the auto to get the additional lever off. I ran out of light so I'll try in the next few days to see if I can get it to install in the manul pedal base.

          Be careful of how you handle/catch an out-of balance steering column. The column shifted out of balance on me while I was working and I grabbed onto the signal switch out of instinct and ended up with this.


          Here is how it sits as of now.




          I didn't get everything done tonight so I'll finish it off in the next day or two. It's 1:20 am right now so I'm going to take a bit of a rest.
          Last edited by frozenrice; 29 May 2007, 05:29:50.

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          • I tried searching but I can't find any directions or pictures of where to drill the hole for the clutch cable. Can anybody help out?

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            • Since there was no pictures, I made my own. Hope this helps.

              1 3/4" hole saw:


              Start with marking (as best as possible) the center of the hole and use a drill to predrill a pilot/guide hole. Use the hole as a guide for the hole saw. I couldn't get the hole saw to drill flush to the surface so having a predrilled hole to hold the hole saw in place to get the cutting started made it much easier. You'll end up starting the hole at an angle. BTW, the hole saw cut through the firewall like butter.

              Next to the brake booster:


              Closer shot, looking through. The secondary hole is behind the foam/sound deading/insulation stuff (you'll need to cut some away/move it aside to expose the backside of the hole for the clutch cable in the pedal base:


              Here's a shot of the clutch cable installed in the engine bay side :

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              • I got the cruise control lever installed on the pedals. This is the lever that provides the "force feedback" (pedal feels like it is automatically depressing) when the cruise is engaged. Just transfer the lever/arm over from the auto pedals to the manual pedals. You'll need to drill out the spot welds to detach the arm. I luckily had an air chisel to help out the removal.

                Here are some pics:

                Drilling spot welds (about 4-5):

                You might have to remove the gas pedal to access one of the welds. Remove the cotter pin and the pedal should slide right off the base.


                Unfortunately in my case, I had already installed the manual, non cruise pedals in the car. The arm can still be installed at this point though. You'll have to remove the gas pedal on the manual pedals and undo the nut that holds the base down. The cruise arm simply pops in and is held in place with the bolt that holds the assembly in. Reinstall the gas pedal and hook everything up and you're done:

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                • UPDATE:

                  New engine and tranny are in as well as the shifter. The only problem is I can't get it into gear with the engine running. If the engine is off, I can shift fine through all the gears. The innovative mount tranny mount worked beautifully.


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                  • Clutch cable adjustment?
                    1956 Ford F100 Custom pickup, Chevy powered
                    1992 Integra GS LS/VTEC
                    2015 Porsche Macan (Arriving Jul 2014)

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                    • Yeah I'm thinking maybe. One of the guys that helped me said he had turned the knob as far as it would go so I took his word for it. I had a quick look at it when I got home and it appears there is still some room the turn it. I'll give that a try and see what happens.

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                      • could i use some parts out of a gen 1 can some one post what would not work

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                        • I doubt any gen1 parts would swap over. Gen1s had a different engine (ZC?) which means the tranny probably wouldn't work with a b-series anyways. The only thing you might be able to reuse is the shift knob.

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                          • i was hopeing for a least pedals

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                            • Does anyone remember the wiring when using the automatic wire harness in a manual car for making reverse work? I forget which ones to use. thanks a bunch.
                              http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/da9b16/side2.jpghttp://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/da9b16/file.jpghttp://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...takendec-1.jpg

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                              • Reverse will work without any doing any wiring, the wiring is to have the reverse lights light up when in reverse. I wouldnt know though which colors they are but I know it is the ones from that come out of the manual trans and two wires from under the driver seat? I think thats what I read in this thread somewhere above.

                                Blue/yellow and something else maybe.

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