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automatic to manual swap (auto - 5spd conversion writeup)

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  • hey just wondring a quik question i didnt have the egr valve thing on my car since i swapped the motor for a manual one(didnt come wih the egr)and wasted gas like crrrrraaaazzzzyyyyyyyy well i since installed the old manifod with the egr and got 5speed ecu for free will that help my wasting gas/bckfire problems?? Also heard that if i wanted my car tonever backfire again or run perfectly i would also have to change the wiring harness....is this true?or is it the same just running the intake manifold with th egr vale and 5speed ecu?I also paid 250 for my whole swap to be installed!! muhahahha but paid like 2k in parts -.- i love my car but if i could go back in time i would of just sold it and bought a manual teggy.....

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    • Something doesn't seem right. If I'm not mistaken, the EGR isn't used in a manual set up.

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      • it isnt thats why i put m ld manifold with the egr valve on it bak on.Because without it i was getting like 15mpg maybe worse!! tomorrow im changing the intake manifold gasket hopeully everything runs correctly!I also had a problem that my motor sat to high and didnt have the front motor mount so it ripped my driver side mount andmade my axles pop out so i just added more washers today and the motor sits level and put the window welded front motor mount back on and windowelded the driverside motor mount hopefully i have no more problems!!

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        • Originally posted by RacingPoverty View Post
          I did the swap alone with two jacks and a floor jack. You can do it, just make sure you know EVERY step and prepare well.
          me too kinda, i had one jack and a siccor lift. it was hard as hell manuvering the tranny up in there cuz my jack is short but with a few blocks of wood and some blood and sweat i got it lol

          but it was all worth it

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          • i am getting ready to do this swap. i paid 550 for a custom built trans, 180 for the 5spd parts. i am also doing an ls-vtec conversion, obd0-obd1 conversion, with a chipped p30 with a 4k 2 step and 8.5k revline, and i am putting a DC rear seat in, as well as full black interior conversion(it was blue). my question is how do i wire my clutch in so my 2 step will work properly and also not start unless i push the clutch in? and i got cruise compatable pedals do i need to get a plug for it to work or will the one off my auto pedals plug in and work??
            Last edited by LS-V DA-9; 25 Apr 2009, 04:12:54.

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            • amyone???

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              • this should be a TegTip

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                • ttt

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                  • Originally posted by LS-V DA-9 View Post
                    i am getting ready to do this swap. i paid 550 for a custom built trans, 180 for the 5spd parts. i am also doing an ls-vtec conversion, obd0-obd1 conversion, with a chipped p30 with a 4k 2 step and 8.5k revline, and i am putting a DC rear seat in, as well as full black interior conversion(it was blue). my question is how do i wire my clutch in so my 2 step will work properly and also not start unless i push the clutch in? and i got cruise compatable pedals do i need to get a plug for it to work or will the one off my auto pedals plug in and work??
                    ttt

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                    • Hope some of the experts are still monitoring this thread. I started my auto to manual yesterday. It includes a number of other items that I am doing at the same time. My question relates to the business of removing the pedal assembly. Some say the dash board should come out, while others say not necessary just remove the heater duct. From what I have done so far, I think removing the heater duct would do it. I was able to remove the top bolt of the pedal assembly by prying the heater duct aside. I cannot see any way of getting the heater duct out without breaking it. Am I missing something? I have the pedal assembly bolts and nuts out but the brake push rod prevents me from removing the assembly. Would appreciate some ideas from guys who have done it. My steering column is completely out as is the gauge cluster. Thanks.
                      1956 Ford F100 Custom pickup, Chevy powered
                      1992 Integra GS LS/VTEC
                      2015 Porsche Macan (Arriving Jul 2014)

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                      • i just pulled on the ducts and the flexed and came out.

                        just dont forget to put them back, i did and its not worth it to me to drop everything again for the far vent to work, though i do miss it

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                        • Originally posted by OldGuy View Post
                          Hope some of the experts are still monitoring this thread. I started my auto to manual yesterday. It includes a number of other items that I am doing at the same time. My question relates to the business of removing the pedal assembly. Some say the dash board should come out, while others say not necessary just remove the heater duct. From what I have done so far, I think removing the heater duct would do it. I was able to remove the top bolt of the pedal assembly by prying the heater duct aside. I cannot see any way of getting the heater duct out without breaking it. Am I missing something? I have the pedal assembly bolts and nuts out but the brake push rod prevents me from removing the assembly. Would appreciate some ideas from guys who have done it. My steering column is completely out as is the gauge cluster. Thanks.

                          I'm sure you've probably done it, but you did remember to remove the pin that connects the pedal to the rod right?

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                          • Yes I removed the pin. The assembly is free to move. All fasteners are out but the rod that attaches to the brake via that pin is the problem. I can't move the assembly back far enough to clear that rod. I am going to try prying out the one heater duct closest to the assembly as suggested by lksdG2.
                            1956 Ford F100 Custom pickup, Chevy powered
                            1992 Integra GS LS/VTEC
                            2015 Porsche Macan (Arriving Jul 2014)

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                            • Even though the ducting seems rigid, you should be able to bend it to get it out. It's the type of plastic that you can distort without breaking and sort of bend back into shape.

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                              • Ok, thanks for the advice.
                                1956 Ford F100 Custom pickup, Chevy powered
                                1992 Integra GS LS/VTEC
                                2015 Porsche Macan (Arriving Jul 2014)

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