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automatic to manual swap (auto - 5spd conversion writeup)

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  • Anyone?

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    • looking back through the thread i saw a couple people that just plugged up the EGR in one form or another and they never had problems with the auto ECU hard to say.


      i'm thinking leave the auto's engine/ecu setup the same......remove the tranny......the engine runs the same
      now bolt up a mechanical trans.......still no change
      Last edited by integranewbie; 11 Oct 2009, 20:04:22.

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      • the egr system is on auto vehicles to supplement the decreased fuel mileage compared to a standard transmission.

        i beleive its tied into the transmission ecu, which should get tossed out with the auto tranny.

        your car will technically run the same but without the proper ecu you will throw a code. this doesnt bother some, for others its an eyesore.

        i presonally i swapped ecus because i wouldlike to know if anything else ever happens. if thelight is always on how are you gonna know when something else comes up?

        i got my ecu for $25 and it was money well spent imo

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        • makes good sense. i guess and would make things simpler and can actually block off the EGR and remove all the excess stuff that accompanies the auto as well

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          • lksdG2, so you which manual ecu did you pair up with your engine in order to take care of the CEL? I'm in the middle of my auto-to-manual swap as well and sounds like it may be worth while to get a manual ecu..Thanks for the help!

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            • I just stuck a bolt in the hose to the EGR valve and im running a 5spd ecu. I cant tell if i have a CEL light on though cuz my bulb is burnt out.

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              • is your EGR unplugged as well?

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                • i finished the swap last night everythings good except i used a manual intake manifold(without egr) i think it was out of a 92-93 with my throttle body and now my car is idling funny like up and down from 1000-1500. everythings plugged in lines are in no cel idk man but its pissin me off lol. if anyone can help let me know thank you.
                  p.s the car is 10x better as a 5 speed i love it

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                  • You have to set the base idle and timing. Warm up the engine to full operating temperature. Disconnect the idle air control valve connector and put a jumper into the service check connector first. Then turn the idle screw on the throttle body clockwise until the idle is at roughly 700 RPM or at a point when it will keep running. Then set the timing. Re-adjust the idle to the set point you want minus 100-200 RPM. For example if you want an idle at 900 RPM then set the idle for 700 RPM. Re-connect the IACV and remove the jumper. Take the car for a drive and drive it at a constant speed of 30-40 mph for a few minutes. Your idle should be good now. It may take a few days of driving until things settle down. Your ECU has to set up its short and long term trim settings. You now have basically a new setup as far as the ECU is concerned. If you are using an automatic ECU, you may get a code for the EGR. I advise you to get a manual ECU if you have not done so. It won't reach its max potential with a code triggered.

                    If you need more help, there is an idle Teg Tip available.
                    1956 Ford F100 Custom pickup, Chevy powered
                    1992 Integra GS LS/VTEC
                    2015 Porsche Macan (Arriving Jul 2014)

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                    • i jus did my 5spd swap and now mine wont start. i hooked up the wires right. theres no codes flashing. the mfr will keep clicking any help would be appreciated

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                      • i got it running. it had couple blown fuses. and i cleaned all the grounds. so its all good.

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                        • cool! glad to hear that you got it sorted out!

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                          • thanks man. in waiting on clutch cable now so i can move it

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                            • Originally posted by OldGuy View Post
                              You have to set the base idle and timing. Warm up the engine to full operating temperature. Disconnect the idle air control valve connector and put a jumper into the service check connector first. Then turn the idle screw on the throttle body clockwise until the idle is at roughly 700 RPM or at a point when it will keep running. Then set the timing. Re-adjust the idle to the set point you want minus 100-200 RPM. For example if you want an idle at 900 RPM then set the idle for 700 RPM. Re-connect the IACV and remove the jumper. Take the car for a drive and drive it at a constant speed of 30-40 mph for a few minutes. Your idle should be good now. It may take a few days of driving until things settle down. Your ECU has to set up its short and long term trim settings. You now have basically a new setup as far as the ECU is concerned. If you are using an automatic ECU, you may get a code for the EGR. I advise you to get a manual ECU if you have not done so. It won't reach its max potential with a code triggered.
                              If you need more help, there is an idle Teg Tip available.
                              ok thank you i will try it out but what is the jumper your talking about lol?

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                              • got a question need an answer ASAP please
                                i guess i'm confused on this shimming idea, i'm only doing it to get it running and in a month i'm getting the proper conversion mount
                                regarding shimming the auto trans mount which auto mount parts do i use and which manual mount parts do i need

                                just let me know by number per the schematic here please

                                thank you very much
                                13sk70_b47.gif

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