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automatic to manual swap (auto - 5spd conversion writeup)

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  • what i did for now was drill 2 holes in the plate that bolts to the tranny and used long bolts and attached the auto mount. i made sure my engine was level b4 i put spacers go between it. send me an email and i can send pics of how i did it jus temporary. [email protected]

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    • I did this... getting some CEL's 13 and 43... anyone got a vacuum diagram or something i can follow? would the EGR have something to do with this??

      would the fact that I threw a 90 ECU into a 91 matter?

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      • Post your email address and I'll send you a 1 page pdf file of the B17 vacuum connections.
        1956 Ford F100 Custom pickup, Chevy powered
        1992 Integra GS LS/VTEC
        2015 Porsche Macan (Arriving Jul 2014)

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        • [email protected]

          Im on a b18 though, should be the same no?

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          • I sent you the B18 vacuum connections.
            1956 Ford F100 Custom pickup, Chevy powered
            1992 Integra GS LS/VTEC
            2015 Porsche Macan (Arriving Jul 2014)

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            • recieved thank you!

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              • well nevermind my last post regarding the mount.......got the motor and trans out and got to find 2 of my mounts fell apart, the driverside mount almost there and the auto mount was starting as well lol so next week will be calling innovative to make an order
                and yes the pedals were the worst part of it all everything else is really a breeze

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                • If you are buying the replacement set, Innovate will allow you to substitute the auto to manual mount for the same price for the replacement set. The mounts are very stiff. Unless you are racing the car, I recommend the "red" mounts. Thats what I have and they still transmit the noise and vibration into the cabin of the car. I have a real nice audio system in my car but with these mounts, I wasted my money on the audio. I am thinking of going back to the stock Acura radio because my car is not a daily driver so whenever I do drive it, its a spirited drive. I also have MFactory gears which means high RPM in all gears. That coupled with the mounts mean lots of noise.
                  1956 Ford F100 Custom pickup, Chevy powered
                  1992 Integra GS LS/VTEC
                  2015 Porsche Macan (Arriving Jul 2014)

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                  • i came across this write up and its quite good and detailed


                    http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2304301

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                    • If anyone can provide some pics of their auto mount shimmed I would appreciate it. I have to hold off on the conversion mount but I would like to get it running. It is my dd so i can't tackle the swap yet until I figure this out. Email is [email protected]

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                      • inovative mounts makes several mounts to do this swap i have the 92-93 auto to hydro mount on my auto 2 manual swap it just bolts right in no need to shim or modify

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                        • here is a pic it cost 100.00 i believe


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                          • they make em for cable and hydr trany inovativemounts.com

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                            • Almost done w/ this swap.

                              "To wire your reverse lights you need to:
                              connect the yellow wire from the transmission switch to the yellow wire in the 12 pin connector.
                              connect the green wire from the switch to the green/black wire in the 12 pin connector."

                              This is off Honda Tech. I dont understand this, The Two Green/Black and yellow wire coming from the Transmission need to be hooked up inside the car? Where exactly is the 12 pin connector? Do I need to install my dash and the wiring harness w it has a 12 pin connector or is it where the Auto trans Computer has a 12 pin Grey connector "honda tech pictured white". My question is mainly why doesnt the Auto engine harness have these wires so I dont have to extend them into the car!
                              Last edited by Teg Fares; 18 Jun 2010, 06:08:05.

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                              • I just finished my second auto to manual swap and wanted to confirm/deny some myths regarding this swap.

                                1. You don't need the rear mount bracket or rear mount from a manual trani. The auto worked just fine.

                                2. You don't need a manual starter. The auto worked just fine. You do need the lower bolt from the manual starter. It is longer (about 4 inches) and threads throught the trani casing into the short block. I bought a replacement bolt at Napa auto parts.

                                3. You can buy the longer bolts needed (3) for the right (passenger side) motor mount at fastenal for about ten bucks. The 1 inch spacers and washers can be bought at Lowe's for another ten bucks.

                                4. The auto ecu will throw code 12 (egr). Get a manual ecu if you don't want to see the cel, plus in Cali a CEL is automatic failure at a smog inspection.


                                Hope this helps someone.
                                Ng

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