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automatic to manual swap (auto - 5spd conversion writeup)

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  • Haha its been a while, ill have to look in my shed and see if i can dig it out. I appreciate all your help.

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    • Ok so i have found the yellow and green wires you have pictured. The green actually has a black line going through it. Haha i hope thats right! The 2 wires that i see going to the trans in the engine compartment is brown and grey? Would you happen to know where i can find them? Or do i have no choice but to run extra lines right to them.

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      • Originally posted by dalejrfan88 View Post
        Ok so i have found the yellow and green wires you have pictured. The green actually has a black line going through it. Haha i hope thats right! The 2 wires that i see going to the trans in the engine compartment is brown and grey? Would you happen to know where i can find them? Or do i have no choice but to run extra lines right to them.
        It's green with a black stripe. You have options if you are using an engine harness from an automatic tranny. You can trace any of the paired wires from the shift solenoids (there are two) which are no longer used and use those to connect your reverse switch. If you don't want to spend time tracing wires, you can fish two new wires to connect the reverse switch. It's your choice and how comfortable you are tracing wires.

        Ng

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        • Awesome! Thanks man i appreciate all your help! Maybe ill tackle it this afternoon.

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          • hey you never mention of you can reuse the same half shaft from the auto tranny with the 5 speed.

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            • I might have missed it but what do you do with the wires for the auto control unit and auto cruise box located on the driver side under the dash? I took those two out but i havent finished the car yet. Just checking if i have to do anything with the plugs that went into these two control boxes.
              Originally posted by jdecks23
              Especially in the Honda scene where people are cheap, do things in distaste and move on quickly. It takes a real tuner to have a vision and make it a reality. There is no better feeling than looking at your own car and feeling like "damn this is exactly what I wanted it to be." In my mind real tuners build timeless cars - not trendy ones, that means it will give you and observers the same feeling over time whether it's 3 or 20 years from now.

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              • I just removed then

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                • The issue I'm having in the cluster. My automatic cluster has a green plug in the center, but my manual cluster has a yellow plug in the center. They don't mate. Anyone else have this problem or a way to correct it??

                  - Brandon

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                  • Originally posted by AxeOfGlory View Post
                    The issue I'm having in the cluster. My automatic cluster has a green plug in the center, but my manual cluster has a yellow plug in the center. They don't mate. Anyone else have this problem or a way to correct it??

                    - Brandon
                    I just used my auto cluster. No problems whatsoever.

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                    • I think i get the jest of the wiring however just to put up what i'm lookngi at. Here are all the plugs i have in the car that went to part of the auto setup that i no longer have in the car.

                      My car is an obd0 1991 sedan with a 1991 obd0 harness and manual ecu in there.

                      On the plug in the middle with the larger black and black/white plug i made a jumper for this. Anything else within these plugs/ wires i need to splice together, lengthen, run to somewhere else or other wise do something with?




                      These three plugs came from under the dash to that auto box that was there. Am i going to need to do anything with any of these wires here?


                      This is at the tranny. This is where i got a little confused (more than i am with all the other wires)
                      What do i splice to get the reverse lights working again?
                      Originally posted by jdecks23
                      Especially in the Honda scene where people are cheap, do things in distaste and move on quickly. It takes a real tuner to have a vision and make it a reality. There is no better feeling than looking at your own car and feeling like "damn this is exactly what I wanted it to be." In my mind real tuners build timeless cars - not trendy ones, that means it will give you and observers the same feeling over time whether it's 3 or 20 years from now.

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                      • So I am starting to collect parts to do this swap. Been doing research but just confused about the trans side motor mount. Is the mount location on the body of the car really in a different place and that is why you it's better to get the auto to manual mount or will using manual mounts allow me to bolt it up with no shimming?

                        Edit: now that I actually used my brain I get it. Sorry for the post.
                        Last edited by ProMcCown; 18 Jan 2013, 07:28:59.

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                        • OK so I did a auto to manual swap. I used a manual engine harness. How do I get my reverse lights to work

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                          • ok the reverse switch is giving me issues. The lights are not coming on when in reverse.



                            I ended up going the route Oldguy gave to wire up the reverse switch:


                            Originally posted by OldGuy View Post
                            Reverse lights - This is a bit more complicated. I used the two existing wires that run to the lockup solenoid on the auto tranny. One is red and one is grn/blk. Trace those wires back to the connectors for the tranny computer. The tranny computer has to come out to make room for the pedal assembly. Cut those two wires off the connector. They are at B3 (red) and B8 (grn/blk). The large tranny connector is A and the smaller one is B. Looking at the connector from the wire end, they are number A 1-8 across the top row and A 9-18 across the bottom row and B 1-5 and B6-12. Now go to the selector switch again and look for the Grn/blu and Grn/blk wires. They plug into the tranny computer at A4 and A3 respectively. Cut those two wires off the tranny computer connector. Now at the tranny computer connectors solder the red wire to the grn/blu wire and grn/blk wire to the grn/blk wire. Now you have a continous wire from the engine compartment to the shift selector switch connector. At that shift selector connector the grn/blk wire goes to the backup lights. All you need now is power. The yellow wire at the shift selector switch cable is a power source. Solder it to the grn/blu wire. Once you plug in that shift selector connector again, you will have a circuit made for the backup lights. You only have to now connect those solenoid wires in the engine compartment to the backup switch on the manual tranny. You can hard wire them or use a connector from another backup switch or make a completely new connector set. Your choice. Back at the selector switch connector, you can cut off the wires you haven't used and tape them so they don't accidently ground or short on something. Plug the connector back in the way it was for the auto tranny shifter and you are done. You don't need anything else from the auto tranny setup. The shift lock connector and the S3/S4 switch connector can be removed with the shifter assembly.

                            I did a continuity check from the engine harness side of the plug that goes into the reverse sensor to the auto shift selector switch connector and it was good. I got good continuity. next I checked the yellow wire that plugs into the sensor at the engine harness side for power and I got 12 volts here. I pulled a bulb out of the rear and put direct power to it and it lit up. I also tried jumping the power wire to the ground one on the engine harness side to see if they would light up without the sensor and got nothing. Im not sure how to check the actual sensor to see if that died (does anyone know how to do this?) however i would have thought jumping the power wire would have directly lit up the lights. This leads me to believe that even if the sensor is bad, its not my only issue.


                            The car did have a remote start that i took out during the conversion process just in case that might be a factor although i doubt it. The only other thing that was a little weird was when i checked continuity and power at the yellow wire on the harness it showed not a complete solid path unless i moved the probe around a little in the plug and power gave me a half volt unless i moved the probe around a little in the plug. This only happened once for each out of the 6 or 7 times i tested and retested these two tests. I did wait to get a great solid path with the continuity test while it was plugged into the sensor before i tested the lights and same with the power test. I had the probe shoved into the plug while it was plugged in.

                            Now that i think about it i didn't check to see if i was getting power to the lights when in was in reverse. I could try that tonight but if anyone else has any other ideas please share.
                            Originally posted by jdecks23
                            Especially in the Honda scene where people are cheap, do things in distaste and move on quickly. It takes a real tuner to have a vision and make it a reality. There is no better feeling than looking at your own car and feeling like "damn this is exactly what I wanted it to be." In my mind real tuners build timeless cars - not trendy ones, that means it will give you and observers the same feeling over time whether it's 3 or 20 years from now.

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                            • Still on the reverse lights:


                              Ok so checking continuity from the power wire (yellow wire) at the shifter selector to the bulb socket in the trunk I get continuity at the power wire for the reverse socket, continuity on the ground wire at the reverse socket and continuity at the power and ground wires in one of the brake light sockets. If I check continuity from the ground wire at the shifter selector to the bulb socket in the trunk (any of them) I get nothing. Shooting voltage through the wires I don't get anything reading at the reverse bulb socket though but I do get 10.xx volts at the brake socket I've been testing as the control wire.


                              I am so stumped on this now.
                              Originally posted by jdecks23
                              Especially in the Honda scene where people are cheap, do things in distaste and move on quickly. It takes a real tuner to have a vision and make it a reality. There is no better feeling than looking at your own car and feeling like "damn this is exactly what I wanted it to be." In my mind real tuners build timeless cars - not trendy ones, that means it will give you and observers the same feeling over time whether it's 3 or 20 years from now.

                              Comment


                              • nobody?
                                Originally posted by jdecks23
                                Especially in the Honda scene where people are cheap, do things in distaste and move on quickly. It takes a real tuner to have a vision and make it a reality. There is no better feeling than looking at your own car and feeling like "damn this is exactly what I wanted it to be." In my mind real tuners build timeless cars - not trendy ones, that means it will give you and observers the same feeling over time whether it's 3 or 20 years from now.

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