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IACV (idle air control valve) delete, pros and cons

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  • IACV (idle air control valve) delete, pros and cons

    Hey guys, LOVE the changes to the site, very clean and streamlined!

    I wanted to ask about deleting the IACV on a OBD-0 Automatic 90 Integra, what are the general pros and cons of deleting a an IACV on a Honda, OBD-0 specifically?

    To give some context I recently bought a used IACV off Ebay, and it looked really clean inside, and seemed to be in good shape except for that screen on one of the ports was missing (Is that a bad thing?), it seems to be working better than my old IACV, but the idle still fluctuates at idle, and once the car is warmed up seems to struggle to keep the idle above 500 and it feels like it wants to stall out, so I have to manually give it a bit of gas, (this gets old really quickly).

    I simply want to get rid of it in from the system, I know I'll get a CEL but I already have one from deleting my bad EGR valve (kept getting code 12 even with it on), has anyone done this with no ill effect? I know you have to loop the coolant lines and go off the base idle screen on the throttle body, but will this hurt anything? Mainly concerned about fuel eco, and daily driveability to be honest since I noticed a drop after the EGR delete.

    I live in the north Atlanta GA area so it doesn't get too cold, or too hot for too long around here.

    Thanks for reading.

  • #2
    have you checked the idle adjustment screw and the FITV? I had a terrible idle after my car sat for almost 2 years,\(this was in 95* summer weather) cleaned the FITV and adjusted the idle/mixture screw (last time it ran was winter time sub 30*) idle was perfect for months no issues. Car sat for a few months and now that its back down to 30* and below , I ran it down the street to get fuel , idle was hunting from 1000-1800rpms. Unplugged iacv and it ran fine. Made it home and turned the mixture screw a little bit, plugged in the IACV , ran fine.

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    • #3
      have you checked the idle adjustment screw and the FITV? I had a terrible idle after my car sat for almost 2 years,\(this was in 95* summer weather) cleaned the FITV and adjusted the idle/mixture screw (last time it ran was winter time sub 30*) idle was perfect for months no issues. Car sat for a few months and now that its back down to 30* and below , I ran it down the street to get fuel , idle was hunting from 1000-1800rpms. Unplugged iacv and it ran fine. Made it home and turned the mixture screw a little bit, plugged in the IACV , ran fine.

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      • #4
        You know your supposed to clean the brass valve inside. It sometimes gets gunk and sticks. You take off the valve then
        You take off the two small screws in the side and you have to push in the valve while you turn it to unscrew it. It comes out as a unit. Once out you take off the spring and you have access to the rear pin. That pin is supposed to move in and out smoothly so you spray some pb blaster or wd40 where the pin slides in to get the gunk loose. Then once your sure it's clean the try to dry it out with break cleaner. The last step is optional but works for me.
        once done put it back and it should idle really low or smooth.
        take pics before your pull it apart.
        also to set the idle with the screw you warm up the engine fully till the fan turns on and off then you adjust the idle.
        this is what works for me.

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        • #5
          Excellent post. Thank you very much!!
          Last edited by sova64; 06 Mar 2017, 21:18:08.

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          • #6
            This article gives us so many incredible stuff. I am love to visit here regularly.
            192.168.1.1

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            • #7
              Cleaned my FITV and IACV. Got better but still fluctuates. What fixed it is a new injectors and Ignition coil.
              Btw, If ever you need new Ignition coil, get a Honda OEM. mighy be double the price(cheaper in ebay) but will also last 10x longer than off brand.

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