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  • Engine died while driving around town.

    This happened a few weeks ago but I've been slow to address it, since I have other cars available to drive. Took the car for a spin after it had sat for 3-4 weeks without being run. Made it about 4 miles and then all of a sudden the engine shut off when I was traveling around 35 mph. No horrible mechanical sounds - just no sounds. I had electrical power and I was going down a slight incline at the time, so I tried to roll start the engine by letting out the clutch in 2nd gear. Was going around 30 mph at this time, and had no luck. Instead the act of letting out the clutch significantly slowed down the car further. After trying that I just let the car coast in neutral until I found a safe place to pull over. At which point I tried again to start the engine. Engine cranked strong, but would not start.

    Prime suspect at this point was the fuel pump, which as far as I know is still original (it at least hasn't been replaced in the 18 years I've owned the car). Troubleshooted that item today by loosening the fuel line and then putting the ignition switch into the "on" position. Fuel shot out of the line, so the fuel pump isn't the problem.

    Then my friend and I started (after waiting for the gasoline to evaporate) to pull out the spark plug wires & boots to see if I was getting a spark. Pulled out the boot from cylinder number 4 (cylinder on driver's side of the car) and WHOA, LOTS OF OIL. Oil was all over the boot, dripping off as we looked at it. Just, ridiculous. Then we pulled the next boot. Oil, but not as much as cylinder #4. Then the next boot - just a small amount of oil. And then the boot from cylinder #1 (passenger side of car), this boot was clean - no oil. So this explains the (occasional) noticeable oil consumption I've been experiencing...

    I take this to mean that the valve head cover gasket is leaking and needs to be replaced. The last time this was replaced was either 2002 or 2007.

    Is it possible that this is causing the engine to not currently run? I'm leaning that way, but am wondering why instead the engine wouldn't start off cylinders 1 & 2 and just misfire or not operate the other cylinders. Either way my next course of action is to get the oil out of the engine and replace that gasket.

    Any advice (or a link to DIY instructions for the gasket) would be appreciated.

    As an aside when this started I had a momentary scare and thought that the timing belt had failed. It hasn't been replaced since 2007 so is certainly due. It would appear that at this time the belt is doing fine, thought I'll inspect it's condition when the valve head cover is removed.

  • #2
    Timing belt snapped. Take off the oil cap and look in the valve cover with a flashlight. Have someone turn the car over if the cam does not spin the belt is snapped and you are in a bad situation and don't try to start the car again! If the cam spins your distributer is probibly wasted.

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    • #3
      check the igniter in the coil
      --Hayden--
      DIS DAMM VTEC JUS WAILIN'
      ..ummm, jus let me know when i get too cocky..ok?
      '92 GS-R--> #1606

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      • #4
        My initial thought is the same as Slick92GS-R - likely a distributor problem, very common. Typically a coil or igniter issue. But, it would be wise to check for the timing belt IMMEDIATELY. Most likely if damage has been done then it's done but personally I wouldn't crank the engine anymore until you know for sure. You need to change the spark plug seals (it's these that are leaking, not your valve cover gasket - but you should change both) so the valve cover needs to come off regardless. You can check to make sure the timing belt hasn't broken or slipped when the valve cover is off. Assuming the timing belt is OK then you can start troubleshooting fuel/spark to pinpoint the problem.
        Track Project DB2 #896
        LeMons Project DA9
        My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

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        • #5
          I might also guess the timing belt may not be to blame because of what you said about "No horrible mechanical sounds - just no sounds," when the engine died but of course not 100% about that. From what I've heard though, when a belt snaps all kinds of bad stuff gets let loose and slams into each other. Especially if you then bump started and cranked it repeatedly and still no horrible sounds. But never hurts to inspect it.

          I and many other b-series owners have experienced the oil-covered spark plug wires thing. Supposedly Honda fixed that issue with the K-Series
          Time for new seals and valve cover gasket?

          Oil-covered plug wires in themselves though could cause the engine to die because you get such crummy conductivity. Since your gas pump sounds like it's working I might think maybe dirty plugged-up gas filter? Do you smell gas near the injectors? My last non-starting engine wouldn't start until I changed the injector seals that were leaking.

          My other last non-starting engine wouldn't start until I changed the horrible after-market distributor that was all rotten inside-out for an OEM unit, checked all my grounds (super important!) and finally replaced the ignitor.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by sloppysleeper View Post
            I might also guess the timing belt may not be to blame because of what you said about "No horrible mechanical sounds - just no sounds," when the engine died but of course not 100% about that. From what I've heard though, when a belt snaps all kinds of bad stuff gets let loose and slams into each other. Especially if you then bump started and cranked it repeatedly and still no horrible sounds. But never hurts to inspect it.
            I wouldn't make this assumption. I've had belts snap or skip teeth without any additional scary noises.
            Track Project DB2 #896
            LeMons Project DA9
            My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

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            • #7
              I took 2ndJenn's advice and looked into the engine cover through the oil cap while someone else cranked the engine. Was able to visually confirm that the camshafts were spinning, so no timing belt failure here!

              Haven't progressed beyond that though (my birthday was this past weekend so I spent the time being irresponsible and carefree, hehe). I have a 4 day holiday weekend coming up for the 4th of July, so I'll start digging in then I suppose.

              Thank you all for the comments/advice - will update thread as progress is made.

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              • #8
                I realize I'm moving at a glacial pace, but in preparation for replacing the valve head gasket and spark plug seals (as well as those little grommets), are there any other parts (gaskets, seals) that I need to do in conjunction with this work and/or should replace?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by DawsonB17A View Post
                  I realize I'm moving at a glacial pace, but in preparation for replacing the valve head gasket and spark plug seals (as well as those little grommets), are there any other parts (gaskets, seals) that I need to do in conjunction with this work and/or should replace?
                  The term you're looking for is "valve cover gasket" not "valve head gasket" - a "head gasket" is a VERY different part.

                  Assuming this is a b17a...
                  https://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org...ead-cover-scat

                  You need:
                  - (1) Valve cover gasket - #5 12341-PR3-000
                  - (4) Spark plug well seals - #7 12342-PT2-000

                  If you want to replace more you can get #2 which includes the seals (#22) for the nuts that hold the valve cover in place. You can also change the o-ring on the oil cap (#10). And if you happen to have a leaky cam end plug or distributor o-ring now would be a good time to replace those as well.

                  Track Project DB2 #896
                  LeMons Project DA9
                  My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thank you for the correction of terminology. I'm aware of the head gasket and the huge amount of labor involved! Definitely not what I meant to refer to.

                    Thanks for the suggestions on replacing those other items.

                    Colin, I do think I should replace 2 of those other items: the distributor o-ring and cam end plug (think I'm getting a small leak there). However I can't locate the cam end plug on that website. Do you know where it's found? If not no biggie I'll keep investigating.
                    Last edited by DawsonB17A; 19 Jul 2017, 14:37:36.

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                    • #11
                      Just gotta poke around a bit on the website...

                      - Cam end plug: https://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org...ZC1tYW51YWw%3D

                      - Distributor o-ring: https://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org...tor-tec-2-scat

                      Considering these are so cheap I think it's a worthwhile idea to change 'em. Just be careful torquing down the cam holders. Make sure you're using a properly calibrated torque wrench or you are comfortable doing it by feel.
                      Track Project DB2 #896
                      LeMons Project DA9
                      My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Excellent! Guess I didn't know exactly what the part I needed looked like, lol.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by DawsonB17A View Post
                          This happened a few weeks ago but I've been slow to address it, since I have other cars available to drive. Took the car for a spin after it had sat for 3-4 weeks without being run. Made it about 4 miles and then all of a sudden the engine shut off when I was traveling around 35 mph. No horrible mechanical sounds - just no sounds. I had electrical power and I was going down a slight incline at the time, so I tried to roll start the engine by letting out the clutch in 2nd gear. Was going around 30 mph at this time, and had no luck. Instead the act of letting out the clutch significantly slowed down the car further. After trying that I just let the car coast in neutral until I found a safe place to pull over. At which point I tried again to start the engine. Engine cranked strong, but would not start.
                          interestingly enough same thing happened to me around the same time back in late june, my previous car being a 89 accord @75 down the freeway, my first thought was timing belt, it was. I've been trying to work on it for the last couple months, I almost have it back together to where i am able to check compression (timing belt, water pump replaced) was going to put the valve cover back on when I noticed one of the nuts for the adjustment screw is missing I haven't been able to find it inside that area i'm thinking it may have dropped down the oil return port back into the pan maybe? also i noticed some wiggle/play left to right a few of the rockers is this normal?
                          Last edited by 92RSBoise; 15 Sep 2017, 02:01:43.

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                          • #14
                            Wish I could offer advice but that's beyond my knowledge level!

                            Finally started working on the Integra (I hate doing car work in the summer heat) lol, and after removing the cylinder head cover I realized I also need to replace the VTEC spool valve O-Ring Filter, so gonna wait on that part.

                            Cylinder head looks great, timing belt also has good tension but it's pretty old so I'll be replacing that too before she's back on the road. Spark plug seals look like complete sh*t though, and the head cover gasket isn't so great either.

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                            • #15
                              Check the fuel pump relay, it does wear our and could cause the same problem. When you turn the key, you should be a able to hear the fuel pump turn on. if there is no noise I would check that first.

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