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Track Build - Cindi

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  • #16
    Yeah, like the guys over on H-T were telling you... a quality cage is gonna be $3k+. Seems like a lot, but it's also a lot of work. I encourage you to work as closely as you can with your builder so they do it exactly how you want it. Try to think about as much as possible before you get it in their hands. And even then you're gonna get it and want to make changes (although it probably won't be worth the effort.

    That's interesting about those seats, I'd never seen those before. I don't have the experience to make a real judgement but I've never really liked those metal frame seats. But I guess I've basically only seen the Kirkeys and the Ultrashields look a lot nicer. I'd also encourage you to check out Cobra seats. IMO, best seats for the money. I bought a Suzuka a year or two ago to replace my Monaco and it's a great seat so far. I've also used Sparco which I would not recommend.
    Track Project DB2 #896
    LeMons Project DA9
    My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

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    • #17
      Still yanking out the AC/PS/Cruise. I also pulled the front bumper, removed the intercooler mounts and basically everything from the driver side of the car. I figured I wouldn't half ass this. Starting to pull some of the interior/HVAC stuff out now.

      In other news, got a wink mirror for free, just need to fab some brackets. Also, getting a race seat for free from one of my 'race buddies'. Just a group of 20 or so of us who are in the Porsche club. Hoping it's decent. If anything, it will make a good passenger seat (if I need one)... Pics soon.

      Hoping from the 17th to the new year I can get some more done. All that time off... yay!
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      • #18
        Share some pics whenever you've got 'em
        Track Project DB2 #896
        LeMons Project DA9
        My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

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        • #19
          Lots of questions. Service Manual is only helping me a little. Need a mix of the 94 LS and 92 GS-r I guess...

          Okie Dokie... So the seat is an oldish Sparco Corsa. I do not care how old it is, it's in good shape and the thing fits me like a glove. I will probably hold off on mounting it for some time because I want to get the B18B running.


          As I said, I want to get the B18 running. I've made some moves, including stealing the crank pulley from the B17. (Dewalt electric impact, no. Air, no. Some other electric impact with 700lbs, ohhhh yeah) I still need to try to adjust the tensioner. The belt is tight everywhere but above the gears. I'm hoping that once I have a helping hand to help guide it on it's way, and hold down while I turn the crank, that I'll be able to get that out with the tensioner. I also pulled the two HVAC boxes from the passenger side. I think that was the blower and the AC core or something.

          So... I have questions now, as to what goes where. I'm running into a bunch of oddities, including stray coolant hoses, wires, and of course vacuum hoses.
          First thing to note, my incredibly incomplete fuel rail. :-\


          I know I need a stock fuel pressure regulator. What's the name of the mushroom tip looking thing on the passenger side? I have a banjo fitting on the end, but I don't see how that's going to work, being that there's no openings. I assume through some special washers that I don't have? (This beast is nickel and diming me to death)

          Now, I believe that this is a fuel return hose? Looks like it was cut. Am I right? This is on the driver side, looks like it goes back to right in the middle of the firewall. Also, not sure what this should connect to. I assume the bottom of the FPR that's missing.


          No pictures of this, but the PCV -> Breather Box -> Wherever, they snapped the bung off the breather box. Is there an alternative route I can take with a catch can -> PCV -> Whatever, so that the PCV is not in such a PITA spot and ditch those hard plastic lines?

          Lets see, WIRING.
          [X] This is from the transmission. What is it? Does it need to be plugged in? Above it, you'll see another random plug that I just assume doesn't need to be plugged in for Air/Fuel/Spark to wake this thing up.
          I think this is the reverse sensor, maybe it lines up with grn/blk & yellow wires found further down...


          Green and Red wires from the fuel rail. Are these for AFR? If so, can I take em off and call it a win?


          Then we have this mess... Thankfully, they used red and black wires accordingly. (Sarcasm) But, I can figured that out easy enough. Question here is, what are those odd ball green/black and yellow wires. I'm looking through my diagrams, and one says Air conditioning, and I say BS. Also, there's a random butt connector floating in this same general area, but it's properly sleeved and what not as if Honda did it, not the previous hack job. Any input here would be appreciated


          Anyways, making good progress. They notched the subframe to put the Hytech in. I don't think it should cause any issues.
          Any help is greatly appreciated as always.
          Last edited by billabongrob; 18 Dec 2014, 16:02:20.
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          • #20
            Pretty busy today but hopefully I can give some sort of help on some of this...

            Originally posted by billabongrob View Post
            Lots of questions. Service Manual is only helping me a little. Need a mix of the 94 LS and 92 GS-r I guess...
            Shoot me an email.

            Originally posted by billabongrob View Post
            Okie Dokie... So the seat is an oldish Sparco Corsa. I do not care how old it is, it's in good shape and the thing fits me like a glove. I will probably hold off on mounting it for some time because I want to get the B18B running.
            Great seat to start with!

            Originally posted by billabongrob View Post
            As I said, I want to get the B18 running. I've made some moves, including stealing the crank pulley from the B17. (Dewalt electric impact, no. Air, no. Some other electric impact with 700lbs, ohhhh yeah) I still need to try to adjust the tensioner. The belt is tight everywhere but above the gears. I'm hoping that once I have a helping hand to help guide it on it's way, and hold down while I turn the crank, that I'll be able to get that out with the tensioner.
            A bit of slack is normal and it depends on the rotation of the engine. If you rotate the engine and test the tension of different parts of the belt by pressing on it with your finger you'll see that the amount of slack changes dependent on where the engine components are. I think the primary reason for this is how the valve springs put pressure on the cam lobes. I can't say whether what you're seeing is within what is normal though. As long as you do the tensioning procedure and the belt isn't off by a tooth then the slack you're seeing should be fine.


            Originally posted by billabongrob View Post
            I know I need a stock fuel pressure regulator. What's the name of the mushroom tip looking thing on the passenger side? I have a banjo fitting on the end, but I don't see how that's going to work, being that there's no openings. I assume through some special washers that I don't have? (This beast is nickel and diming me to death)
            You said mushroom tip
            Fuel Pulsation Damper. I'd try to get as much of this stuff from a junk yard or spare motor if possible if you're just trying to get it running. I wouldn't buy new OEM stuff unless you're planning on keeping this engine long term.
            http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal


            Originally posted by billabongrob View Post
            Now, I believe that this is a fuel return hose? Looks like it was cut. Am I right? This is on the driver side, looks like it goes back to right in the middle of the firewall. Also, not sure what this should connect to. I assume the bottom of the FPR that's missing.
            That's what it looks like to me as well. And yes, it should connect to the FPR. Google image search and you should be able to find what you need. I have a ton of pics on my flickr as well that could be helpful if you need, I just don't have time to dig thru them now.

            Originally posted by billabongrob View Post
            No pictures of this, but the PCV -> Breather Box -> Wherever, they snapped the bung off the breather box. Is there an alternative route I can take with a catch can -> PCV -> Whatever, so that the PCV is not in such a PITA spot and ditch those hard plastic lines? [/img]
            You can run generic rubber hose instead of the OEM custom stuff, it just looks shitty. The OE stuff is not plastic, it's actually a nice supple rubber but over time it turns brittle. I still use the OEM stuff because the fit/finish is nice. But I may run a "breather" setup down the road. In your position I'd just mock up whatever you can for cheap - again, because you're just trying to get this car running.

            Originally posted by billabongrob View Post
            Lets see, WIRING.
            [X] This is from the transmission. What is it? Does it need to be plugged in? Above it, you'll see another random plug that I just assume doesn't need to be plugged in for Air/Fuel/Spark to wake this thing up.
            I think this is the reverse sensor, maybe it lines up with grn/blk & yellow wires found further down...
            Hmm, this is strange. That connector is not the correct connector. It's for the reverse switch that threads into the transmission case. That style connector was used on the EG/DC but not the DA. Seems odd they would have used that instead of using the original one from the DB2. How many wires are there for the other "random plug"? I'm assuming that this will be a leftover connector for the VTEC solenoid and that's why it's just dangling.

            Originally posted by billabongrob View Post
            Green and Red wires from the fuel rail. Are these for AFR? If so, can I take em off and call it a win?
            I can't see from your pics but my first guess would be that those wires are for the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) Sensor.

            Originally posted by billabongrob View Post
            Then we have this mess... Thankfully, they used red and black wires accordingly. (Sarcasm) But, I can figured that out easy enough. Question here is, what are those odd ball green/black and yellow wires. I'm looking through my diagrams, and one says Air conditioning, and I say BS. Also, there's a random butt connector floating in this same general area, but it's properly sleeved and what not as if Honda did it, not the previous hack job. Any input here would be appreciated
            Most likely these two wires are your reverse switch, the connector style looks correct and those wire colors are also familar - you should double check the Helms though. The easiest solution here would be to pull the reverse switch from your b17a and install that then just plug it in. Otherwise you'll just need to cut one connector off and splice on another in order to get your reverse switch to connect to the engine harness.

            Originally posted by billabongrob View Post
            Anyways, making good progress. They notched the subframe to put the Hytech in. I don't think it should cause any issues.
            Any help is greatly appreciated as always.
            From previous pics it looked like they did a really good job notching the crossmember, most of the time it's much more of a hack job than that.
            Track Project DB2 #896
            LeMons Project DA9
            My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

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            • #21
              Small update. Yesterday, I was staying at my girlfriend's place and it was a pretty nice day the day before so I brought shorts and a hoody. I knew I was going to the junkyard, but I didn't look at the forecast, silly me. It was ~50F and pouring, but they had a full DB1 for me to rip parts off of. It cost $2 to get in. I didn't have cash. I had to leave to get cash. I went in, realized that a pair of vice grips, pliers, and wire cutters wouldn't cut it. I had to leave, find an autozone, grab a $5 tool set and head back.
              So... after all of this I was wet and cold but I got most of the things I needed. Here's what I got and learned...
              • Fuel Pulsation Dampener: On the B18A1 in the 1991 integra I was looking at, it sits like this on the fuel rail L__ I had to pull one off of a civic since it looks like this O---- and that's what I'm working with. Initially I though that there was a banjo bolt that would be in use, but the fuel actually flows through a 'muffler gasket' (A gasket with a couple of holes in it) through, into the Pulsation Dampener, then into the fuel rail. Good information.
              • Gaskets for said Dampener
              • OEM Fuel Pressure Regulator + Lower fuel return line: Looking at my pictures, mine was cut, so I figured, why not.
              • IAT plug, clipped as close to the wiring harness as I could. I don't know how vital this is, but probably good to have.
              • Those three sensors/valves that sit near the winshield cowl on the driver side, including the MAP. I'm not sure why I grabbed them, but I figured I might have a vacuum nightmare in my near future.

              So, I was soaking wet, cold, and generally no longer motivated yesterday. Headed to the garage with a 6 pack of keystone... because I'm classy. I bolted on the FPR, I plugged in a few more plugs. Installed the mushroom tip and it's gaskets. Drank two beers and called it a day. The goal at this point is to fire the engine, make sure it runs, and is in usable condition. Kinda backwards from what everyone else does, but I need to get it on the track asap, so that I know what I'm going to need. I'll probably do a separate engine build that complies with NASA Performance Touring rules that can be dropped in and dyno classed and get it into PTE, but I just want to get this on the track so I know what other flaws it has. I drank 2 beers. Called it quits, in case you were wondering.

              Thanks to Colin for helping me again. You've been invaluable.
              One other thing, if you or any of your friends need to deal with the wiring mess and random plugs, and want to mark things before/during a swap, this page is stupid helpful: Honda OBD1 Plugs and Wires Diagram

              Until next time...
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              • #22
                What a lame day, haha! Well, at least you're that much closer. Can't wait to this this gal up and running!
                Track Project DB2 #896
                LeMons Project DA9
                My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

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                • #23
                  Another small update. The next things I'll be ordering will be new wheel bearings (installing extended wheel studs), Gates timing belt kit, and likely wheels/tires. I met the guy who will be doing my cage. Very friendly, and incredible work. He's a structural engineer and has a great reputation for both safety and stiffness.

                  Anyways, I know y'all love pictures. My project for the evening will be installing the extended intake manifold studs from streetrays, Blox intake manifold gasket, and Blackworks oil filter sandwich plate. I've got a mechanical Autometer oil pressure gauge I will be adding here. Haven't thought about where to tap for water temperature yet, and I may buy a matching Oil temp gauge, but I'm not too concerned with that at the moment.

                  Chose streetrays because they're in Austin, so stuff gets here quick. I haven't heard of them but there stuff seems to be about the same quality as anything else I've seen. Blox gasket doesn't have the cleanest cuts, but it was in stock at JHPUsa and an ebay seller sold me one that wasn't in stock, so I rushed it. Patience is not my strong point. The Blackworks sandwich plate seems good. Came with numerous imperfections on it, but I could care less since they're not around any of the sealing surfaces. I think they should include some sort of teflon tape or something with it, but whatever. I got a light color so I know if it leaks or not.

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                  • #24


                    When it comes to stuff like gauges I try to make things as simple, clean and factory as possible. I also like killing two birds with one stone. That mentality is what brought me to how I did this on my previous engine. We previously spoke about all of those extraneous coolant lines - well here's how I took care of part of that issue and also found a place to mount the sensor for my water temp gauge.

                    Note the upper water neck and how it has a bleed screw and a nipple for a coolant line which runs to something like the FITV or something else I didn't need.



                    I removed the coolant nipple then drilled and tapped the hole for the thread pitch of the sensor



                    Installed on the engine



                    and with the wiring integrated into the engine harness
                    Track Project DB2 #896
                    LeMons Project DA9
                    My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

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                    • #25
                      Colin- That is a very well executed sensor location. Most would never know it's not OEM. Awesome!

                      Billabongrob- I'm looking forward to seeing where this project goes! Keep the updates coming!

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                      • #26
                        Yeehaw updates... between yesterday and today I've placed quite a few orders. I'm still deciding on a steering wheel and short shifter. I bought ES shifter bushings because the shifter just feels sloppy on this car compared to my mustang. May be the 20+ year difference between the two. Also looking into wheels. I've decided on 15x8 per the input of you know who you are. Any specific offsets or...? I'll probably do the same thing that you did Colin on the water neck. Looks stock and I'll be able to run the lines with the oil lines. Anyways, things I ordered yesterday-today:
                        • Moroso 4qt oil pan - baffles!
                        • exhaust stud kit from streetrays
                        • JAZ sealed battery box - Just because my battery is currently in the trunk..
                        • Spoon style mirrors - Missing the mirror on the passenger side, almost the same price
                        • Water pump, tensioner, timing belt - Never trust the last person's work
                        • 2 front wheel bearings
                        • Auto Meter nylon tubing kit for the hand me down mechanical gauges from my racebuddy
                        • Water Bypass hose, from water neck to IM, or whatever. Mine looks like it's from a 1994 motor
                        • Thermostat and gasket - while I'm there...

                        Starting to browse colors for the car. I'm a big proponent of orange, but only in healthy doses. I'm thinking battleship gray. (I'll actually be using an older non-metallic porsche color) Current car, of course these are just track wheels...
                        OriginalCar by Rob Heckel, on Flickr

                        I'll miss this car once I trade it on a truck, probably in a month or so. I'm a firm believer that when you turn your car on, it should return the favor. That mustang surely does... Consumable expenses and dwindling reliability has just put a bad taste in my mouth. Check engine lights, loss of power, nearly $500 dollars in brake pads (mmmmm carbotechs...) and ~1,200 per set of tires.

                        Anyways... once the stuff is installed/I do more on Wednesday, I'll send some updates.

                        More old pictures that just resurfaced... Hallett in Oklahoma at Oktoberfast, the Porsche Club Race.
                        2013 Mustang GT Hallett by Rob Heckel, on Flickr
                        Last edited by billabongrob; 10 Aug 2015, 19:17:33.
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                        • #27
                          Small update. TireRack is amazing. I placed an order yesterday around 4:00 pm. My wheels are out for delivery now.

                          I wanted to go 15x8, but I looked into SCCA and NASA Honda Challenge rules, and both are limited to a 7 inch wide wheel. I went with the Advanti Racing Storm S1. Not much to look at, but hey, they're 10lbs. I'm going to run BFG Rivals until the car and I are ready for R Comps. Shouldn't take too long... ran R comps on the Mustang numerous times, not alot of room for error there. The tires are 205/50.



                          I'll be in the garage tonight, so I may toss em on and take pictures. Time to start looking for a local powder coater Just thought the service from TireRack was utterly amazing, especially being that the car came with 14 of the 16 lug nuts
                          Last edited by billabongrob; 28 Jan 2015, 16:40:37.
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                          • #28
                            Wheels in and on.
                            IMG_0740.jpg
                            IMG_0737.jpg
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                            • #29
                              Those are 205-50? They look almost identical to my 225-45's, I was expecting more stretch for a 205 on an 8" wheel. Although I'm not too fond of the style they are definitely one of the better choices out there for a 15x8, most other options are either much more expensive (e.g. Volk TE37SL) or much heavier (e.g. Rays 57DR).

                              What offset are they? (sorry I missed your previous post where you were asking for suggestions on this)
                              Track Project DB2 #896
                              LeMons Project DA9
                              My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

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                              • #30
                                It's actually a 15x7 because of rules in HC and SCCA. +35 offset I think.
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