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Track Build - Cindi

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  • Track Build - Cindi

    I'll edit this as I go, but this is day 1. I have a b17a1 with a bad piston. Very small nick. I have the original YS1 or whatever tranny. Installed is a B18B1 with a B16 transmission. (I don't know the real terminology, sorry) Cam with some shitty MSD ignition that needs reinstalled. The valve cover is off and the timing belt is loose. I haven't torn into yet.

    What it has...
    • RS-R exhaust
    • Goodridge brake lines
    • Koni Yellows
    • Some random intake
    • 3 intake manifolds, I don't even know...
    • Full gasket sets
    • Skunk2 or knock off type r shift knob
    • fancy speakers
    • Battery in trunk... looks like shit

    IMG_0609.jpg
    IMG_0610.jpg
    IMG_0608.JPG

    Ordered and not install
    • Open Ended Lug Nuts (car came with a total of 14, and that aint right)
    • ARP Extended Studs (I don't trust 20+ year old bolts on the track...)

    More to come! If you know anyone who needs DB2 parts, point them to me!

    Updates: 12.16.14 The mess I'm dealing with and the car's new/finished home and cell mate...
    IMG_0650.jpg
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    IMG_0648.JPG
    Last edited by billabongrob; 16 Dec 2014, 16:36:03.
    Current Car

  • #2
    Fantastic come up man, great starting point for a track car, just sucks the paint is horrible. Sell the RS*R, spoiler, interior and engine and you'll be able to get a good start on funding your build. If the shocks are good then you can just start tracking those, otherwise you can simply send them to Koni to have them rebuilt (possibly to the RACE spec valving + shorten them a little). If you have them rebuilt and go with the RACE valving you'll basically be getting shocks for half what they're worth.

    Track Project DB2 #896
    LeMons Project DA9
    My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Colin View Post
      just sucks the paint is horrible
      Thanks! I've got plans for that...
      Current Car

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      • #4
        so you ended up picking it up! sick man i'm gonna be watching this. it came with some pretty decent stuff haha

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        • #5
          Originally posted by billabongrob View Post
          Thanks! I've got plans for that...
          There's the one thing I can't bring myself to tackle yet. My paint is horrible and the whole car needs a respray. I hate tha it looks so bad but don't want to pay the $2-3k+ for paint. When faced with the choice of saving money for paint or just buying go fast parts and seat time the later wins every time. I'll have to get around to it eventually though
          Track Project DB2 #896
          LeMons Project DA9
          My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Colin View Post
            .... Sell the RS*R.... and you'll be able to get a good start on funding your build.
            Horrible idea! Lol

            Normally I agree with Colin 100%.. but this is the exception... if you can afford to keep the RS*R, you'll love it.

            It's not the best performer, as it's only 2.3"... But its one of the most sought after exhaust systems for the 2nd gen Integra.

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            • #7
              The RSR is way too heavy and too quiet for a track car I've been wanting to get rid of mine for a couple of years now. A custom KTeller with Burns mufflers would be ideal I think 😍
              Track Project DB2 #896
              LeMons Project DA9
              My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Colin View Post
                The RSR is way too heavy and too quiet for a track car I've been wanting to get rid of mine for a couple of years now. A custom KTeller with Burns mufflers would be ideal I think ��
                It's huge and the car sits really low as is. We had a hell of a time getting it off the trailer. Also, what muffler? Why do I need a muffler? I checked the RTA's and they look to be solid units. Every gasket set that I had sitting in my RockAuto shopping cart was found in the trunk of the car, so I consider that a win. I'm going to try to get it on the lift Monday, see if I can't get it to the point where it will run. I need a couple dumb things, like a passenger side mirror glass, windshield, hood, probably new headlights, and once the timing belt is tightened up, I'll charge it and see if she turns over.

                Any idea whether the b18b1 (94) and b17a1 use the same distributor? I have an MSD one in the car, not installed. Not sure if I just throw it in and then adjust later on.

                The B17 looks like it has an aluminum flywheel on it. I'm assuming that there is one in the transmission that is on the car. I'll post up more pictures once I get it on the lift. Maybe some of you can help identify some of the parts. I also want to check the springs that are on it. Car also has a 4-1 (I think) header. Looks pretty different from what I'm used to. Also, looks like someone may have done the legend upgrade on the brakes. I'll get pictures once I pop the wheels off. Has drilled and slotted rotors which will need to go for obvious reasons. I used to use Brembo blanks on these cars, but I've also heard good things about Centric lately.

                Any recommendations on parts to mount the battery on the passenger side in the trunk? It's just some standard junk battery. May go with a lawnmower battery or something. (Any recommendations?)

                I'm going to need to find someone who welds in Houston. There's a lot of small stuff I play on doing, but I don't weld... Just design.
                Last edited by billabongrob; 29 Nov 2014, 15:54:15.
                Current Car

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                • #9
                  Muffler is totally optional, I drive my car to the track so I'd prefer it's not insanely loud. I definitely want it louder than it is now with my RSR, but I'd like it quieter than no muffler or resonators or cat (I also run a cat on my car). Modified Buddy Club Spec II is another great option.

                  B18b and B17a do not use the same distributor, they're both OBD1 (or OBD2 for 96+ b18b) but the dist housing is different. You can google for pics, but it has to do with the placement of the vtec solenoid. The guts are the same though, so you can use the igniter and coil from a non vtec dist and put them into a vtec dist. I'd get rid of that MSD unit immediately and I'd keep a spare coil on hand at all times.

                  Before you start doing anything with the battery I'd look at the rules. Some classes will not allow you to move the battery at all (ITA iirc). And others will require a battery box if you move it into the cabin (even for a sealed battery). All of that will obviously effect your plan of attack. I had an Odyssey PC680 and I really liked it. Any small battery like this though (and even a lot of full size ones) will require a trickle charger if you're not using the car regularly. My odyssey finally died and I just replaced it but I've heard the new ones aren't as good as the old, so I guess we'll see what happens. There are also commercially available mounts for some of these batteries. Just google "PC680 mount" and a bunch should pop up.
                  Track Project DB2 #896
                  LeMons Project DA9
                  My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    So, I got some time to look at the car again this weekend. Looks like a wiring nightmare. Has some sort of screw on fuel pressure gauge. I think I'll just put the oem banjo bolt back in. Looks like more of a liability than anything. Found out it had none of the hardware necessary for getting the intake manifold or exhaust manifold on. I bought some standard hardware to get them in place. The exhaust has been bolted up. The header that I thought was so crazy looking is stamped HyTech. I'm guess that this is a pretty good one? May be a bit overkill for a stock internal B18B1. I think the next steps will be to remove the AC to make more working room.

                    Here's the two extra intake manifolds. If anyone can identify them, or tell me if one would be better to use, that would be cool. Also, I'm thinking that this stray wire hanging off of the back of the block is a temperature switch or something. Can anyone confirm?

                    intake1.jpg
                    intake2.jpg

                    And one of the many wiring issues. I may look up those tuck threads to see what I can remove and what I can keep. Also need to try getting rid of some of the emissions junk.
                    nightmare.jpg
                    Current Car

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                    • #11
                      Pic of the fuel pressure gauge? Unless there's something messed up I'd keep it. A fuel pressure gauge is an invaluable troubleshooting tool and IMO something you shouldn't go without (especially considering they are so cheap and easy to install).

                      Not sure about the first manifold, obviously it's stock and that likely means it's not anything that awesome. The second one looks like it might be an ITR manifold which is what you want if you run a vtec engine but it won't fit a non vtec head.

                      Hytech is a good header manufacturer, whether it's what you want is another thing altogether. You should be able to look at pictures online to determine what version it is. I think they make a couple different designs and possibly even a couple options for primary or collector diameters.

                      As for that wire, it should be for the Engine Oil Pressure Switch (which is for the oil light in your gauge cluster and has no other function). This pic is from a 90-91 block, the b17a would only have the oil pressure switch and the oil temp switch, a b18b would only have the oil pressure switch.
                      Track Project DB2 #896
                      LeMons Project DA9
                      My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Didn't get a pic of the gauge. It looks like it was liquid filled and is now just cracked. So, if there are other screw on ones, maybe I'll get one. If there is a preferred setup, I'll do that too. Figure a fitting and some hose to the gauge, shouldn't be too tough...
                        I guess this will e considered a slow build, but last night I tore out the majority of the AC. The PS is already looped, so that's ok for now. I saw a thread where they were tearing the guts out of the PS rack and then using it as a manual. May consider doing that, not for ease of steering but for the little bit of weight saved. I also pulled out some of the cruise control stuff. Really looking forward to getting her to 'ls' weight.

                        Also through in a picture of the Hytech header. It looks like it has a minor dent in the bottom, but I think everyone's header does...

                        IMG_0629.jpg
                        IMG_0631.jpg
                        Current Car

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                        • #13
                          I'd 100% suggest getting a fuel gauge. No need to go fancy unless you want to, there's absolutely nothing wrong with the type that screws onto the fuel filter. They're affordable and accurate, and considering how helpful they are I think it's a mandatory item for any track car. I have the B&M on my car: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-46054

                          Saw that you're posting some stuff up for sale... if you don't get some offers quickly I'd drop the prices a bit. $500 is quite a lot for a non-R pr3 head. Also looks like the b17a was boosted at some point unless there's some other explanation for the oil return line on the oil pan.
                          Track Project DB2 #896
                          LeMons Project DA9
                          My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

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                          • #14
                            colin with the knowledge. haha i like this

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by jalenda9 View Post
                              colin with the knowledge. haha i like this
                              Tell me about it... more helpful than most. This old forum isn't nearly as busy as it used to be. I'm going to throw the FP gauge on my shopping list, but obviously there are a lot of other issues that need to be addressed first. I'm glad you mentioned it was boosted at one point. I assume that's why the B17 is in the condition it's in, but the guy I bought it from swore it hadn't been. I really want to get the B18 running to see what condition it's in. If it's no bueno, I'll probably be on the hunt for another... At this point, there's quite a bit of play on the timing belt, on top of the cam gears. Since I rarely trust those before me's work, I will be buying a timing belt, water pump, and tensioner/spring. I will redo that and pray for the best. I'm likely going to throw the battery back in the front again. Just to avoid any potential class issues. Maybe leave the wiring for another day.

                              I've decided on a lot of the safety equipment. I know, everyone is probably hoping for Type R seats, or bride, or something hip. I'll be going UltraShield, here in texas. They'll custom build seats for my body type, gimme the webbing (apparently when it goes out of date, they reweb for like $50 or so, beats buying harnesses every few years...), and do the window nets etc... Cage will be done by Lucas in Houston. Very reputable shop, but the pricing isn't for the faint of heart.

                              Anyways, enough with the future plans... Nobody cares, they just want pictures.
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