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Teg Tip: Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV) adjustment/removal/internals

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  • #16
    Originally posted by wearedaughters
    My idle fluctuated too until I came across Ben Ogle's thread and this one as well. I've had the my DA for about 2 months now and the idle has been fluctuating since I bought it. It did the same for the previous owner and he said that all that it need to be fixed was a new IACV.

    Well $300 dollars later, it kept doing the same thing. I finally got enough time to get into the FITV today and I screwed in the white plastic thing about 20 minutes ago and it's now running like a champ!

    Thank you very much for your informative thread.
    so even a new one had a loose cap? wierd. glad to help
    autozone online repair manual
    http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...leSelected.htm

    supplement with haynes manual from pep boys (<$15). includes vital troubleshooting and maintenence schedules.

    pics of all gsr rims

    b-series dynos

    Comment


    • #17
      Idle Hunting

      Hello Friends, this is my first post. Please apologyze my Bad English, I am Argentinien and live in Buenos Aires.

      My CRX 91 DOHC JDM (engine similar to ZC but NOT THE SAME, even both are D16A9), hunts severely from 1500-2500 when warm.
      Led on ecu blinks showing code 14, means EACV problem. I have measured resistance on EACV terminals and it is ok (11 volts aprox), same for continuity between terminals and ground and there is not.
      I have cleaned it following this thread instructions, lots of black grease came from inside the valve.

      When I disconnect the EACV terminal with the engine running, IDLE drops to 1000 but it still hunts.

      Can you help ? THANKS !!!
      Emilio
      [email protected]

      Comment


      • #18
        Emilio,

        I tried all the above techniques when my car was having hunting idle....I did all the following:

        Replaced CAP and Rotor.
        Replaced Spark plug wires
        Cleaned IACV
        Replaced FUel Filter

        The one that FINALLY helped was cleaning out the IM w/ a carb cleaner.

        I popped off my CAI and massaged the throttle while I sprayed carb cleaner into the IM. I did this for about 4-5 minutes (or 1/2 a of the spray). Then turned it off and it fixed my hunting idle! I also ran some fuel injector cleaner in my gas tank as well (Lucas stuff). This fixed my idle problem!

        Maybe try that as well?

        Comment


        • #19
          ok, thanks for your advise, but what brakes my mind is why the ECU led is blinking with a 14 code error.
          The valve clicks when I put battery voltage into terminals. And Idle should NOT hunt when I disconnect it. (As far as I know).

          Comment


          • #20
            idle Hunting

            Hello Friends

            YES IT WORKED !!!!!!!!! I followed instructions and found the white cap completely loose inside the FITV, I tightened it, reassemble all and my CRX IDLES PERFECT !!!!!!!!!!!!!

            TONS of mechanics had diagnosed a IACV failure, they were all WRONG. Besides blinking at the ECU has gone, I resetted it during 5 minutes disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery.

            Question: why is the IM loaded with lots of that kind of black greasy coal-powder in the inside part ? is it normal ?

            thanks again to this thread author, you made my day. Regards from Buenos Aires, Argentina

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            • #21
              good tip fixed my idle thanks

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              • #22
                Thank God

                Just wanted to say first of all im new to the sire and also i ad a very big problem with my car idleing real high when it was cold could not figure out what was wrong with it forever for over a year and a hlaf and seen that someone posted about the fast idle valve...well i took mine apart illustraighted in the pics above and it fixed my problem.....couldnt believe it.Thanks for the tip.

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                • #23
                  then the hot coolant spilling on me was worth it :p don't forget to change the 15 year old hoses while you have a chance as well. for the tight bending ones, just make the hose long and do a big loop, or buy the oem pre-formed ones.
                  autozone online repair manual
                  http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...leSelected.htm

                  supplement with haynes manual from pep boys (<$15). includes vital troubleshooting and maintenence schedules.

                  pics of all gsr rims

                  b-series dynos

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Adjusting the FITV white cap

                    I have a 1991 Acura Integra and after reading this post I wanted to check my FITV even though the car idles fine when cold. I noticed the white cap was not fully tight so I tighten it. After installing everything back, I started the engine and noticed the car idled very low about 500rpm. But after the engine warmed up the idle raised back up to normal around 800rpm. I shut off engine and waited hours for engine to cool again. I restarting the engine and it still idled very low until it warmed up then idles back up to around 800rpm. This tells me my Idle Air Control Valve is working after the Fast Idle Thermo Valve closed due to coolant warming up and activating the built-in thermostat. So I decided to take the FITV off and untighten the white cap back about 1 and 3/4 full turn. After reinstalling it, the car now started up fine. Idle was around 1500rpm and slowly decreased to around 800rpm after it warmed up.
                    So in my conclusion, the white cap controls the amount of idle at cold engine starts. I recommend people not to tighten the white cap completely. But leave the cap loose about 1 3/4 full turn. It's possible that if the built-in thermostat is stuck, the white cap is too loose, a leak in one of the coolant hoses, or even air bubbles trapped in the cooling system, the engine would have similar idle problems. Keeping the white cap loose around 1 3/4 full turn away from tight works for my 1991 Integra. Good luck to all.
                    Last edited by stwebx; 31 Dec 2005, 06:31:17.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Greetings, I am new to the board and wanted to say, wassup.

                      I don't drive a 'teg, but I'm powered by one, is that fair enough?

                      Anyways, my motor is a 94 JDM B18B Auto with 96 GSR Tranny. I didn't know the B18B was an auto as it wa shipped without a transmission but I got it for $750 so whatever. When I got it, it ran great and has never given me any trouble. Until recently...

                      Here is what I want you guys to see...



                      Now, is it possible to take off the two plate screws without taking off the FITV? It looks like a biznotch to get to and I just want to make sure that when its off, I can get to the white screw that I'm hearing about...

                      Thanks for all your help!

                      PS - Here's a pic of the ride

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                      • #26
                        Thanks to the original poster!
                        Fixed my boucing idle that mysteriously started early last week.

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                        • #27
                          does anyone else have to adjust theirs every 2-3 months? I'll tighten mine down and it'll solve the problem. Then a few months later my crazy up and down idle comes back. So i adjust it again, and boom it fixes it.

                          So does anyone else have to do something similar?

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            seems like you can do it while still on the car if you can reach it.

                            sounds like you need some loctite or something.
                            autozone online repair manual
                            http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...leSelected.htm

                            supplement with haynes manual from pep boys (<$15). includes vital troubleshooting and maintenence schedules.

                            pics of all gsr rims

                            b-series dynos

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              but where would i put it?

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                i forget how it looks up close, but i assume on the side of the cap wherever the threads are. i dont think coolant runs over it (?), but dabbing some rtv silicone or hondabond sounds like an option too.
                                autozone online repair manual
                                http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...leSelected.htm

                                supplement with haynes manual from pep boys (<$15). includes vital troubleshooting and maintenence schedules.

                                pics of all gsr rims

                                b-series dynos

                                Comment

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