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Teg Tip: Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV) adjustment/removal/internals

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  • #31
    yeah, i used some rtv silicone on the threads, we'll see what happens

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    • #32
      I just adjusted mine and I agree with stwebx, I believe the white screw cap should be about 1 3/4 turns to 2 turns from fully screwed in, unless you want your car to idle at 1000 to 1500 when cold. I think if it's screwed all the way in, the control valve inside doesn't let enough air in to cold idle properly, thus defeating the purpose of the valve. I have mine open about 2 1/2 to 3 turns from closed as I'm writing this, and the idle is at about 1000 when warmed up and fluctuates a bit. Once I get time to screw it in the correct amount, I'll post up exactly how far out it is. Now like his car, mine is a 91, and it may be different from the 92-93 due to the fact the 92-93s don't have that valve on the front center of the manifold.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by g2luvr
        I just adjusted mine and I agree with stwebx, I believe the white screw cap should be about 1 3/4 turns to 2 turns from fully screwed in, unless you want your car to idle at 1000 to 1500 when cold. I think if it's screwed all the way in, the control valve inside doesn't let enough air in to cold idle properly, thus defeating the purpose of the valve. I have mine open about 2 1/2 to 3 turns from closed as I'm writing this, and the idle is at about 1000 when warmed up and fluctuates a bit. Once I get time to screw it in the correct amount, I'll post up exactly how far out it is. Now like his car, mine is a 91, and it may be different from the 92-93 due to the fact the 92-93s don't have that valve on the front center of the manifold.
        hm if possible, i would rather control the idle via the idle adjustment screw. don't forget to reset the ecu properly.
        autozone online repair manual
        http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...leSelected.htm

        supplement with haynes manual from pep boys (<$15). includes vital troubleshooting and maintenence schedules.

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        b-series dynos

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        • #34
          I agree with the idle being adjusted with the idle adjustment screw, but what's happening on mine is the valve doesn't close all the way when warmed up, causing a leak. So I'm just talking about adjusting the fast idle valve properly so it won't interfere with the other systems that take over when it is warmed up.

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          • #35
            fixed mine too. i love this site

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            • #36
              I am thinking i got this same problem.


              What does everyone's idle at/jump from and to when the FITV was at fault.


              This morning i jumped in the car to head to school, i did notice it idled awful high but didnt put much thought to it, it was idling right at 2000 maybe a tad under. After i got to school i went in and had lunch and came back to my car and the idle was jumping from 1500-2250.

              does this sound the same as the FITV problems? I'll mess around with my car in the shop tommorow.
              Projekt Deutsch: hat Luxusware gefördert

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              • #37
                I just pulled mine apart and the cream part was completely unscrewed and just fell out.

                now i can't get the thing to screw in at all.

                edit: got it in and fixed it right up
                Last edited by Da9tegra; 12 Apr 2006, 14:54:37.
                Projekt Deutsch: hat Luxusware gefördert

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                • #38
                  hmm i think i found my idle problem source... i was wondering if a loose FITV would cause my car not to shift out of first til it was warmed up?

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                  • #39
                    wats up im new to g2ic i had my car for 6 months now a 90 gs 2 door 5 speed if it helps just a month ago i noticed my idleing was very bad heres what happens i start the car let it warm up it seems stable but when i put my lights on the idle raises and when i turn the lights off it raises even more and same thing when i hit the brakes highr highr n higher i did research tried screwing the white plastic thing in the fitv didnt work , i checked vaccums , then i cleaned iacv , in the end i put 2 metal plates behind the fitv and iacv it fixed the headlight thing but now it fluxuates and almost stalls im thinking its the computer im not to sure or map sensors can anyone help

                    thankx

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                    • #40
                      After the motor is warmed up I put my finger over the lower port on the TB and there is abit of vacuum pull there - it will very gently pull the rubber from my glove away from my finger but the rubber will come away easily. The upper port sucks some mean air, it's howling loud but I'll post that issue elsewhere

                      I pulled the FITV off in an attempt to solve a hunting idle problem. I should have counted the number of turns out, but I'd guess it at around 3 - 3.5 turns out. had to hold a finger on the brass tip in order to get the white donut to turn, but managed to seat the white donut. backed it out ~1.5 turns and reinstalled.

                      might still have a problem - after cleaning and reinstalling both the FITV the lower port is still drawing vacuum, just abit less than before but there is still a pull on my finger when its over the port. should the port be totally dead with the engine warmed up? if so then I'll need to pull it back out and readjust the donut abit tighter.

                      if I seat the donut completely then I get no fast idle in cold start conditions, correct?

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                      • #41
                        help

                        i dont have a teg but have a 96 civic 1.6 non-vtec do i have a fiv cuz i am having a high idal problem 1600-idal-1100-drive
                        all the time cold and hot
                        please help i have looked but have not found one do i haVE one?

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                        • #42
                          you have a iacv which would be your problem. bolted on the back of the intake manifold, the new civic are on bottom of manifold.

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                          • #43
                            i also have a idle problem. it idles at 1600-1800 rpms at car temp. and i messed with my timing, throttle cable and everything seems to be fine but it idles to high. will this solve my problem?

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                            • #44
                              This is amazing! my car has been doing this for about a month now and I have taken it to a few shops around here and the didn't know exactly what it was, one thought it was my throttle position sensor but i tested it and it works flawlessly but I found this thread today and i sounded alot like the problems I have been having so i figured what the hell...and it fixed it, thanks so much for the great information XDEep without it my car would still run like shit.

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                              • #45
                                Seenthis problem everywhere

                                I found it easy to adjust your cold idle with the FITV while the car is running. If you leave the plate off the back of your FITV you can fit 2 fingers in it. I also found this post on both FITV & IACV which seemed very helpful.

                                http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...g+Common+Topic

                                1990 Acura Integra

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