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Last registered in 03 - no fuel

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  • Last registered in 03 - no fuel

    So I decided to get back in the game today. I dug out my integra that I've had in my garage buried for years. It was last registered in 2003 if that tells you anything.
    I tried to get it started and was sort of successful. I got it running by spraying fuel in the throttle body. I have plenty of spark, but zero fuel.

    Strange thing was that I found a 7.5 amp fuse on the dashboard and I don't remember pulling it. Is there a fuel pump fuse?


    I'm going to buy a battery this week. And mess around with it some more.


    Any other ideas would be appreciated. I've got a ways to go to get it back in shape.


    https://i.imgur.com/1ajuhWY.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/98yRBYY.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/zoWxtFH.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/uVcLILy.jpg

  • #2
    Under dash #18 7.5 amp = ECM and PGM- FI main relay (starter signal)

    other main relay fuses: engine bay
    #30 80 amp
    #38 10 amp

    Under dash # 24 15 amp (fuel pump power)

    wire to test for power at the fuel pump is Yellow black stripe 2 silver bands. If you test it at the main relay you don't have to pull out the rear seat.
    Last edited by 2ndJenn; 17 Apr 2017, 03:07:10.

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    • #3
      I stored my Integra for 10 years. When I pulled it out the fuel pump (less than 500 miles on it) was seized up. Ethanol destroys everything. I had to drop the tank and replace the pump. Acura OEM pumps are no longer available. I highly recommend Airtex fuel pumps ( E8334H ) You can get them from Amazon for around $115.00 they come with the top seal and are extremely close to Honda OEM. I was very impressed with their quality and I am a devout Honda OEM parts buyer.
      Last edited by 2ndJenn; 17 Apr 2017, 03:16:39.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by 2ndJenn View Post
        I stored my Integra for 10 years. When I pulled it out the fuel pump (less than 500 miles on it) was seized up. Ethanol destroys everything. I had to drop the tank and replace the pump. Acura OEM pumps are no longer available. I highly recommend Airtex fuel pumps ( E8334H ) You can get them from Amazon for around $115.00 they come with the top seal and are extremely close to Honda OEM. I was very impressed with their quality and I am a devout Honda OEM parts buyer.



        I'll check it out. Thanks!

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 2ndJenn View Post
          Under dash #18 7.5 amp = ECM and PGM- FI main relay (starter signal)

          other main relay fuses: engine bay
          #30 80 amp
          #38 10 amp

          Under dash # 24 15 amp (fuel pump power)

          wire to test for power at the fuel pump is Yellow black stripe 2 silver bands. If you test it at the main relay you don't have to pull out the rear seat.


          I'll look tomorrow!

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          • #6
            If that 7.5 amp (#18) was pulled would the starter still work? Or is that the signal to the pump to kick on?

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            • #7
              Yes the starter would still work. The main relay and starter are on different circuits. # 18 fuse is just a trigger wire to activate the main EFI relay.

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              • #8
                Installed a new battery and no luck. The fuses looked good good too. One thing I noticed was when I connected the ground on the battery (left key on by mistake) I heard a couple solenoids clicking. Two up by the driver's side firewall, one by the distributor. Does that sound normal?

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                • #9
                  Yes, that is normal when you change the battery with the key in the on position. Signs of life.. Could you hear the pump prime? If you left gas in the tank the pump will be wasted. When I replaced my fuel pump I blew out the
                  fuel send and return lines with compressed air and replaced the fuel filter.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 2ndJenn View Post
                    Yes, that is normal when you change the battery with the key in the on position. Signs of life.. Could you hear the pump prime? If you left gas in the tank the pump will be wasted. When I replaced my fuel pump I blew out the
                    fuel send and return lines with compressed air and replaced the fuel filter.

                    There is very little fuel showing on the gauge. If memory serves it was really low when I parked it. The tank let out a big woosh when I uncapped it for the first time.
                    As far as the pump priming that was a negative. I cracked the bleeder and got nothing. You think I should buy a tank at the same time or just try the pump?

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                    • #11
                      I had very low gas in my tank about 3/4 if an inch up on the pump housing and it was enough to seize my pump. I drained what was left in the tank and cleaned it out the inside with mineral spirits. I let it sit for a week to make sure everything evaporated out before installing the pump. You could take it to a shop and have it hot washed if you wanted to. You shouldn't need to replace the tank. If it was rusted out you wouldn't have had a vacume when you opened the cap.

                      It really helps to have an extra deep 12 mm socket to drop the tank. I ordered a set of 10 & 12mm extra deep sockets off of eBay and it made the job much easier and faster than using a wrench and a regular deep socket.

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                      • #12
                        Make sure you test the wire I previously mentioned before you start ordering parts or dropping the tank.
                        if you want you can text me and I can send you pictures. I will be deleting my number from this post in 2 hours.
                        Last edited by 2ndJenn; 18 Apr 2017, 02:49:36.

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                        • #13
                          I did a auto to manual conversion and I'm not getting fuel out of my injectors, can hear the fuel pump run but my injectors are not spraying fuel

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                          • #14
                            Any help would be appreciated

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