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Thread: How Do You Know If Your Water Pump Is Bad

  1. #1
    greenlanternTEG

    How Do You Know If Your Water Pump Is Bad

    my car just started over heating.
    i change the thermo. it still over heating
    the fan stay on when i turn the car off
    if it is the water pump can you still drive the car
    and for how long

  2. #2
    dsmIA50311
    i believe you can normally see the water leaking from the waterpump..do you see any water leaking anywhere..check all the hoses and fluid level in radiator..but if the water pump if whats going bad i wouldn't drive on it at all your car will overheat really quick could result in bad thinks like a cracked block...so look around the engine for water leaks...

  3. #3

    Join Date
    26 May 2003
    Location
    Fairfax, Virginia, USA
    Your car can overheat for various reasons:

    Bad thermostat, bad water pump, blown head gasket, bad radiator cap, clogged radiator, fan not comming on, etc....... As far as the water pump goes it is usually replaced at the same time as the timing belt. Anywhere from 60k-90k is the recommended replacement time. Do some reading here on the symptoms for each of the causes I listed, but the short of it is -

    Bad thermostat & water pump will give you low/no flow
    Blown headgasket will give you, (I forget) oil in the antifreeze, or antifreeze in the oil. Either one is bad news.
    You said the fan is working fine.

    It would not be wise to continue to drive it since this can cause A LOT more damage if you don't fix it soon.

  4. #4
    BlueBulletNY
    My car is overheating after driving and then I come to a stop. Not all the time but its really starting to drive me crazy. I flushed the radiator, put all new fluids. I also put in a Factory Thermostat, and ran my fan to stay on at all times. Any ideas why this would this be happening? There are no leaks, and this is really bugging me.

  5. #5
    arpunk
    could it be that your gauge is wrong?

  6. #6

    Join Date
    03 Jul 2004
    Location
    California
    Mine used to do that after flushing the radiator...I did everything from changing water pump...too new coolant...too new thermostat...but it will still overheat after driving the car and coming too a stop. What fixed it I don't know but I followed this process.

    First fill the radiator.
    Turn the car on and warm it up until the fans turn on..with the radaitor cap off.
    let it sit for like 15 to 30 minutes and you will see bubbles coming out...those bubbles are air that is in your system which causes the overheating.
    after that...go drive around and then come back and now try the little nipple that is at the end of the top hose where it goes into the block. After the process go test drive it hoping it will work..maybe try it a few times.

    Also try to change your radaitor cap..sometimes that 7 dollar thing causes overheating too.

  7. #7
    TDIstreetracer
    ur water pump can also be bad and still stay cool. and not leak water. A while back mine went out I drove it for 1 week till I could afford a new one. Mine made a real bad squeaking noise. The pump "bearings" i think it is was siezed and it messed up my t belt a little bit but i needed a new one neways.

  8. #8
    BlueBulletNY
    Well I dont hear the Water Pump, making any noises. I will test out clearing out the bubbles, and also change the radiator cap. I read in the haynes book this can cause your car to overheat because it does not create the proper pressure. Will do this, and let you know.

  9. #9
    chinaonnitrous1
    usually a broken water pump will leak, or will create some noise as the bearing is chewed through. It will give some sort of indication.

    Sounds like there is air in the system. Remove radiator cap while car is cold. Set heater to FULL HOT, run car untill the thermostat opens, you can tell when the upper radiator hose gets hot hot hot. youll see bubbles come up. Keep watch, dont let the radiator fluid dissapear from the top of the radiator, as your letting air enter the system again.

  10. #10
    BlueBulletNY
    Looks like that was the problem. Bought new cap, let the bubbles come out like everyone said, and no more problem. WOO WOO!!!! Also took the jumper off the fan to make sure the fan sensor is still working. Fan kicked on just when it was needed. I cant believe this 7 dollar item caused me headaches. THANKS EVERYONE!!!!

  11. #11

    Join Date
    03 Jul 2004
    Location
    California
    Glad to help someone in need...now...order me a pizza!!!!!!!! LOL

  12. #12
    milanogisser
    I always used an oldschool water pump test....remove radiator cap,start car,look and see if you have movement or bubbling in radiator.If not pump is bad no flow...

  13. #13
    seateg
    Quote Originally Posted by chinaonnitrous1
    Sounds like there is air in the system. Remove radiator cap while car is cold. Set heater to FULL HOT, run car untill the thermostat opens, you can tell when the upper radiator hose gets hot hot hot. youll see bubbles come up. Keep watch, dont let the radiator fluid dissapear from the top of the radiator, as your letting air enter the system again.
    Instead of opening the radiator cap which will allow air back into the system, it's best to use the bleeder valve located on the water outlet on the engine. Follow the top radiator hose to the engine and look at where it connects. There you will see a little hollow-stemmed nut that you might have wondered about before. Now you know it's the cooling system bleeder valve.<p>
    Top off the radiator, cap it, run the engine to operating temp to pressurize the system, open the bleeder and allow the air to escape. When nothing but coolant comes out close the valve. If you've got a lot of air in the system you may need to do this a number of times (top off, bleed) to completely purge the system.<p>Using the radiator cap to burp it will not fully purge the system. The bleeder is located at the highest point where air might get trapped. Also, having air trapped there can cause the thermostat to malfunction.

  14. #14
    RGV5000

    Waterpumps

    Waterpumps either work, or they blow up. They are very simple on these cars. They consist of a housing,impellor,seal and bearing driven off the timing belt. If the seal starts to go,you will lose coolant.Normally this means the bearing is not far behind.

  15. #15
    munkybutt

    trapped air....

    will having trapped air also cause my thermo to show that it is running cold (or, lack of heat)? b/c sometimes when I'm driving on the freeway at night, my thermo will start out at like 11:30 then after awhile it will be on the 'c' line or at like... 630, and then once i get off the free way, it will go back to 1130. any ideas? or is this just a redundant or stupid question...?

  16. #16
    Sam92Teg
    Sounds like your thermostat is stuck open, causing the system to over-cool so to speak. They are cheap and easy to swap out and should be considered regular maintenance for the cooling system.

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