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Thread: xsi b16 or ls/vtec

  1. #21
    Ricalot
    wow, you guys make the b16 out to be slow. I've beat h22 ludes, dc gsr's, and all kinds of stuff, and i know for a fact that my b16 is quicker than my old ls. Actually i beat a dc gsr that just got done beating an ls/vtec (in a dc) but the ls/vtec was built cheaply. I really haven't got many mods but my xsi(92) b16 seems to run pretty stout.

  2. #22
    BlackLil91
    I just finished up my ls/vtec and would not trade it for anything. My buddy has a b16b (ctr) in his ek, and I'm not even impressed by that. My SLIGHTLY built, non-tuned, ls/v with b16 tranny runs with my buddies turbo gsr(dc) till 3rd, then he pulls me.

  3. #23
    whoa its len 2
    If you go xsi b16 run a b16 tranny and swap in itr crank, rods, pistons. Poor mans stroker kit.

    If you go ls/vtec run a b16 or gsr tranny and try to get your hands on some p30 or pr3 pistons to up the compression.

    My $0.02 on some great platforms to build up.

  4. #24

    Join Date
    06 Nov 2003
    Location
    Los Angeles, California
    Quote Originally Posted by whoa its len 2
    If you go xsi b16 run a b16 tranny and swap in itr crank, rods, pistons. Poor mans stroker kit.
    I'm sorry, but that sounds like the stupid man's stroker kit....

    The B16A block has a 7mm shorter deck than the B18A/B/C and B20B/Z block. If you tried to put ITR crank and rods in a B16A, the pistons will be sitting 7mm above the block. Let's just say that it isn't a good idea....

    If it were that easy to stroke a B16A, it would be done left and right...


  5. #25
    whoa its len 2
    ^^ Thanks for the heads up and cartoon. 7mm headgasket for the win!

    My bad custom rods would be needed. I was thinking B16B.

  6. #26

    Join Date
    08 Oct 2004
    Location
    pennsylvania
    ok so b16 looks like the way in my eyes. but what is the "proper" way to build a ls/vtec?

  7. #27
    Ricalot
    all new gaskets, arp rod and head bolts. just don't go cheap on anything, make sure the heads shaved vtec oil galley pluged properly and oil line ran good. just common stuff, just don't say "well its not in good shape but it'll be alright for now" on any parts.

  8. #28

    Join Date
    12 Dec 2004
    Location
    Wisconsin
    I just droped a JDM B16A1 into my 91', I'm running a full MSD ignition, front mount col air, full DC exhaust into a high flow cat, spoon chiped pr3 ecu & a LSD tranny. Have not driven it as of yet to much snow, how do you honestly think this car would do?

  9. #29
    Ricalot
    well i got the jdm b16a also (92 supposed to be 170hp stock), intake, s2 i.m. and cam gears, header, all that other small shit that every1 gets and mine outran a lot of shit. gsr's,h22 ludes, but i did get beat by a ls/turbo Ate his ass out to about 70 or 75 then i heard wwwwssssss, pppppsssshhhhhh. and well he walked past me like it was nothing.

  10. #30
    naisab18a1
    b16's respond a lot better to mods than b18a, i can tell you that much. just I/H/E and CSR cams on obd0, untuned runs pretty well.

    And in terms of whats considered a good ls/vtec build... well best advice is DONT CUT ANY CORNERS. Getting it built it easy, making is reliable is the hard part.

  11. #31

    Join Date
    16 Jun 2005
    Location
    Baltimore Maryland
    for a proper ls/vtec build, much of which goes for any rebuild project:

    -ALL new gaskets, seals, and o-rings (i.e. valve cover, spark plug, oil pan, oil pickup, TB, IM, EM, head, cams, cam end plug, TPS, IACV, FITV, idle screw, air temp, air boost, injectors, fuel rail, oit temp switch, water pipe, thermo, water pump, rear main, valve, etc. to name a few)
    -ALL new hoses running both coolant and vacuum
    -ALL new bearings (main, rod, and thrust washers)
    -ARP rod bolts, head studs
    -new oem: timing belt, oil pump, and water pump
    -if not new rods, get them shotpeened
    -if not new pistons, get them cleaned, get new rings
    -double check ring gap
    -get block inspected, cleaned, honed, decked
    -crank should be inspected and polished
    -plastigauge the new bearings and crank/rods, replace with other sizes if needed
    -get entire rotating assembly balanced (blueprinting is best)
    -get head cleaned, decked for perfect mate, oil port tapped and blocked
    -oil line tapped and run to head
    -replace valve seats, springs, retainers, keepers
    -care in reassembly with proper lubes, liquid gaskets, and exact torque measurements (especially rod bolt stretch procedure)
    -proper break-in procedure
    -regular oil changes and overall maintenace
    -get it tuned!

    i probably missed a lot of stuff but that should give you an idea. its no walk in the park, but build it right and you'll prove all the nay sayers wrong

  12. #32
    93LSVTEC
    ive gotta ls/vtec in my teg and its been reliable as hell

  13. #33

    Join Date
    08 Oct 2004
    Location
    pennsylvania
    ok guys i figured that i am going to do an xsi b16... now i was looking at the innovative motor mounts that Mike from www.revautousa.com sells and i noticed that there are 2 different mounts for a 92-93 and 2 or 3 hardnesses

    mounts: 1992 - 1993 rs/ls/gs & 1992 - 1993 GSR
    harnesses: 60a red recommended for street
    75a black recommended for street/track
    85a grey specifically for race cars

    now i am not saying that i want the grey ones because i am far from having a race car, but in personaly opinion, which may be my better choice? red or black? and which mounts will i want to get for that motor in my 92 gs?

    thanks for the help guys

  14. #34

    Join Date
    18 Aug 2004
    Location
    Arlington, Texas
    For the motor mounts above:
    How much engine vibration do you want to feel?

    The harder the mounts, the more vibs you will feel, and the more inertia will be transfered to the frame. The softer the mounts, the more vibration and inertia will be soaked up by the mounts. They wont "make you slower", but you will not feel a 'hit' when you gun the throttle if the mounts are softer. (I may not have the wording right, correct me of I am wrong please!)

    Go with the red if this is a daily driver. If you are going to do a bit of track, I say go with the black.

    However, if you want to squeeze out any performance motor mounts are going to give you, then get the grey ones.

    In reality, its all what you want.

    Personally, I have mounts from Honda for my B16 OBD1 YS1 (w/LSD) swap. Their performance is good enough for my setup right now. I will switch to something harder once the engine's power is exceeding the limits of the mounts.

  15. #35

    Join Date
    08 Oct 2004
    Location
    pennsylvania
    so i am assuming that you used the mounts that came with the motor? or did you get new ones from honda? and if so what did you ask them for? b16 mounts?

  16. #36

    Join Date
    18 Aug 2004
    Location
    Arlington, Texas
    Got the stock motor mounts for a 90 integra with a B18a. They work fine. The mount (only one left on the motor when I got it) was broken in half.

  17. #37

    Join Date
    08 Oct 2004
    Location
    pennsylvania
    so i could just get the 92-93 gs/ls/rs mounts and should be fine, or get energy suspension inserts...

  18. #38

    Join Date
    18 Aug 2004
    Location
    Arlington, Texas
    yep. Should work fine for ya. Unless you really want something harder. The stock OEM mounts should be fine for a stock B16 OBD0 or OBD1.

  19. #39

    Join Date
    11 Aug 2005
    Location
    yonkers ny 10703
    BlackLil91 , hey bro can u tell me wat kind of set up did u have done on ur ls/vtec ?????????

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