Dexcool compatible antifreeze
I tried searching, but to no avail. I just need to know something. I recently replaced my thermostat on both my tegs, well the guy at the auto store sold me two gallons of dexcool compatible antifreeze. I told him I wanted something silicate and phosphate free and that's what he gave me. I got home, statred pouring and it was orange.
Is this safe to use in our cars? Should I flush this out and just use regular old prestone, peak, or zerex?
I've been running the cars like this about two weeks with no problems, but I'm still a little curious. I also flushed the motor and radiator with water to get any of the old green antifreeze out. And I just looked at the bottle of the orange stuff, it was already a 50/50 mix, but I still added water, so Its more like a maybe 25% orange stuff, and 75% water mixture.
THanks for any help
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Last edited by Soon2BXSi : 22 Jul 2004 at 19:13:16
Reason: forgot to add something
we use green antifreeze on HOndaz
honda does use the green stuff but if you completely flushed it out i dunno what wrong it would do.. i dont know much abotu antifreeze so yeah.. but i know when you mix the two itll start to gel
i heard you arnt sposed to use orange coolant on cars that use green coolant and vice versa.
To make your answer short. Yes, they are compatible. I use dexcool in my vehicle's. Also people say not to mix them because they will gel and so on. You CAN mix them the only side effect is obviously the red coolant life will not be as long because green is mixed in.
Green coolants additives bonds to all surfaces in the cooling system, Were red coolants only bond were it is needed, and replaced with more when worn out. Giving it the longer life (put it into english terms, much more to it than that).
YES it will work. Just try to get as much green out as possible (dont just drain radiator) a little wont hurt it.
'90 Melborne GS Sedan
In newer Dodges and Fords they use something called G-05 which is not compatible with green or red...
'90 Melborne GS Sedan
GM Dexcool coagulates with the traditional green stuff. GM says that their product cannot be used where the green stuff has been, because a simple flush does not completely remove the old coolant. I personally, wouldn't want any kind of coagulating going on.
Prestone does have a Dexcool compatible product, that can be used to replace the green stuff. So I guess you're good if you got the Prestone stuff.
And let's not forget that Toyota uses an orange or red coolant that is not Dexcool (if I am mistaken, please correct me).
As in coagulates you mean it does not mix and will clump? This is incorret. It does mix. I have the specifics in storage on the two coolants and that they are mixable. But i would have to find it.. (Technical sessions with Chevron engineers for work).
Also the Toyota red coolant is a green based coolant that has been dyed red. Is also compatible with green.
Im not saying it is a good idea to mix im just saying it is possible and does work. What i recomend is if you are switching to Dexcool try to get the most out you can but if you dont it will not make a difference.
'90 Melborne GS Sedan
When I spoke with a GM rep, it was said that GM Dexcool coagulates, other brands may be mixable, such as the Prestone version. With that said, ther is a chance that some brands will cause it to coagulate, some brands may be good to go. Since we are having disagreements on whether it mixes or not, I would highly recommend checking directly with the manufacturer of the specific brand of coolant being used.
Call me a jerk or whatever, but what's important is that motor stays healthy and doesn't overheat.
23 Jul 2004, 07:02:00
Also If you are worried about the two mixing. Did you make sure your heater was turned on when flushing the system? The heater core retains coolant unless you turn it on then it has to cycle new coolant through it.
24 Jul 2004, 05:40:11
Wow, I didn't think there would be that much discussion on this topic.
But, the stuff I got is Dexcool Compatible, it's not specificly dexcool, only compatible.
Anyhow, I did flush the system out for like 15 minutes with just water, I did turn the heater on too...I saw nothing but clear clean water coming out. I couldn't find the radiator flush liquid so I just used water.
Anyhow, I haven't seen any adverse side effects from using the orange stuff. So if anyone has actually experienced something horrific in our cars because of this...then by all means please share and I will be flushing and filling with good old green.
Thanks again for the info and help guys.
24 Jul 2004, 07:07:11
well to tell you the truth ive seen a lot of people flush the cooling system just to go back to the green stuff... the red stuff just doesnt seem to actually last 100,000... me personally id rather run the green stuff and flush that regularly than to run somethin that claims it lasts 100,000..... just liek oil.. id rather run regular oil and change it regularly than run synthetic
24 Jul 2004, 08:35:10
Antifreeze: Red or Green?
There has been a very lively discussion going on about "Red" or Dexcool® antifreeze and regular "Green" antifreeze. I have been asked to explain the difference between Dexcool® and clear up some myths and misconceptions about both. This is quite a challenge because every company's antifreezes have different combinations of additives and inhibitors. I won't go into brand specific formulations but rather stick to the basic properties common to all antifreezes.
One myth is that all red antifreezes are Dexcool®. There are standard antifreezes that are red and cars that have Dexcool® will be labeled as such. Another myth is that Dexcool® is not glycol based. Not true, all antifreezes are glycol based, including Dexcool®. Both ethylene glycol (EG) and propylene glycol (PG) are used as the antifreeze base. From here the additional additives and inhibitors are added. Each glycol has supporters, although the best choice depends on the intended use. There are several considerations to be made when choosing an antifreeze, the most important being performance. In the area of performance there is very little difference in EG and PG. Additives determine most performance criteria so all coolants supplied by a respectable manufacturer will perform well. The one major difference in EG and PG is toxicity.
Because the most persuasive reason to use PG instead of EG based antifreeze is toxicity, we should discuss a little about toxicity. The first thing to think about is the difference between acute and chronic toxicity. Acute toxicity refers to toxicity that has a short duration. If you survive poisoning with an acute toxin, there are usually no lasting effects. Chronic toxicity on the other hand is something that lasts a long time. When poisoned with a chronic toxin, symptoms may not appear for a long time and they may last indefinitely.
PG differs from EG in both acute and chronic toxicity's. In antifreeze we are most concerned about one time accidental ingestion. Therefore our interest is in acute toxicity. The acute toxicity of PG, especially in humans, is substantially lower than that of EG. Propylene glycol, like alcohol, is not toxic at low levels. In applications where ingestion is a possibility, PG based antifreeze is a prudent choice. EG is the most common base used in the manufacturing of antifreeze.
Another consideration is that all antifreezes pick up heavy metal contamination during service. When contaminated (particularly with lead) any used antifreeze can be considered hazardous. Because of metal contamination many people feel that the toxicity of used antifreeze is the same regardless of glycol. This is where we look at chronic toxicity. PG is not a chronic toxin. EG and heavy metals are chronic toxins. Heavy metals, on the other hand are not acute toxins at the levels found in used antifreeze. For this reason PG based antifreezes, are much safer for people and pets in case of accidental ingestion even after use.
In many US and Japanese antifreeze formulas phosphate is added as a corrosion inhibitor. European vehicle manufacturers, however, recommend against the use of phosphate containing antifreeze. The following will examine the different positions on this issue to help judge the pros and cons on phosphate inhibitors.
In the US market, a phosphate inhibitor is included in many formulas to provide several important functions that help reduce automotive cooling system damage. The benefits provided by the phosphate include:
Protect aluminum engine components by reducing cavitation corrosion during high speed driving.
Provide for corrosion protection to ferrous metals.
Act as a buffer to keep the antifreeze mixture alkaline. This prevents acid build-up that will damage or destroy metal engine parts.
European manufacturers feel that these benefits are achievable with inhibitors other than phosphate. Their main concerns with phosphate containing products are the potential for solids dropout when mixed with hard water. Solids can collect on cooling system walls forming what is known as scale. This concern comes from the fact that European water is much harder than water in the US. Because phosphate "softens" water by forming solids of calcium or magnesium salts that can dropout of solution, there is potential for cooling system blockage. The phosphate level in most US and Japanese antifreeze formulas do not generate significant solids. Furthermore modern antifreeze formulations are designed to minimize the formation of scale. The small amount of solids formed presents no problem for cooling systems or to water pump seals
While it is ethylene glycol based antifreeze, the concern with mixing comes from the fact that there are very different chemical inhibitor packages in use. Most leading technologies will work very well when used as intended, typically at 50% in good quality water. If the coolants become mixed with Dexcool®, however, one study showed a possible aluminum corrosion problem in certain situations. The other question is a concern for dilution of the protection packages. At what mix is the there too little of either inhibitor to protect the engine? As a precaution, both GM and Caterpillar instruct that contaminated systems must be maintained as if they contained only conventional coolant.
I would not recommend using Dexcool® in a vehicle that did not come from the factory with Dexcool® in the cooling system.
It would be very difficult, if not impossible, to flush out all the conventional anti-freeze coolant from the cooling system of an older vehicle, and any conventional anti-freeze would contaminate the Dexcool®.
Compared to old-fashioned phosphated antifreeze, Dexcool® may be more stable and improve water pump life. Evaluations of the two technologies to compare their respective service lives have found them comparable. In fact, a Ford Motor Company study concluded that organic acid coolants do not offer any significant advantages for the consumer over current North American coolants. In a modern car with a well-maintained cooling system, current North American and OEM factory fill coolant corrosion protection can be extended far beyond previous expectations.
So the bottom line is this, if your car came from the factory with Dexcool®, use Dexcool® for replacement or to top off. If your car came from the factory with standard "green" antifreeze, use that for replacement or to toping off. Case in point, Dexcool® has been known to cause head gasket and water pump failure on some Ford OHC V-8's.
Copyright © 2001 - 2003 Vincent T. Ciulla
26 Jul 2004, 17:11:09
WOW ...I guess I'll be flushing out my cars then and refilling with old green again.
paz92ls THANK YOU for the indepth explanation between the two antifreezes.
So, you hear that everyone...USE GREEN!
26 Jul 2004, 19:05:55
no problem, i used to work in a radiator shop and i couldnt let this go on anymore!
***NEVER MIX ORANGE AND GREEN***
***ONLY USE WHAT YOUR VEHICLE CAME WITH***
***(BY FAR THE EASIEST) DEXCOOL IS FOR GM VEHICLES***