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JDM B18C swap preparation

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  • #31
    The MAP will be dependent on which Throttle Body you use.. '94+ TB's will use a TB-mounted map, while ours are firewall-mounted.

    The harness/plugs are the same, but wires may need to be extended. I just added about 4" of wire and it was all good.

    I've had personal experience with three Phearable basemaps, on three different setups.. and they chipped my P28. I have nothing bad to say about them. A+ work as far as I'm concerned. Though I ditched their basemap and am currently running NepTune.

    I also believe OMNI to make good products. I've had two of their throttle bodies and both of them seem to be solid units.

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    • #32
      sweet. thanks for the super helpul info! ok question: when I order the IM for my 94+gsr will the I have to order the TB for the 94 or my 91 Ls? also how hard will/would it be to change out maps from mine (on firewall) to the 94+(on TB)?

      Any particular reason you ditched phreable's basemap?

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      • #33
        Order the TB and Intake Manifold for a 94+ GSR, because that's what motor you have.

        And as I said, the 94+ map will plug straight in. Just extend the wire harness if needed.

        Oh.. and I ditched the phearable basemap because the map was made for a previous motor. On my current setup, I had my local tuner make me a map, and he is a licensed NepTune dealer, so that's what I went with.

        Phearable will have a pre-designated RPM for their launch control (2-step), whereas with NepTune it is up to the user. Launch control can be set at any RPM, just have to fully apply full throttle at whatever RPM you want it at.
        Last edited by unified112; 08 Jan 2012, 21:54:47.

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        • #34
          awesome.

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          • #35
            Ummm, any update Ntegr8d?

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            • #36
              well, Im a strong believer of if you're going to do something do it right the first time. so right now, Im taking my time, and completely disassembling the motor, cleaning it, checking it, and ordering parts and researching, researching, and more researching. Im not looking for crazy power...right around 200 or + will be fine with me......for now anyways. I just want it to be clean, simple, and dependable. I am upgrading the pulleys with Unorthodox lightweight pulley set. keeping the stock diameter of the crank pulley not going with any underdrive at all. new waterpump, rebuilding the oil pump. all new seals and gaskets from top to bottom. Im pulling the head this weekend and droping the pan to see how the crank, pistons, and rods look. moroso oil pan will go back on. Im sending my p28 off this month to get reprogramed by phearable.net they can delete the knock sensor issue, so now I don't have to order a new knock sensor OR wire it up which is awesome. getting the obd0 to obd1 conversion kit from rywire.com for the ease of it all. step by step. dont want to rush and slap stuff together and regret it. toooooo many people are so over eager to just get the motor in their car so they cut corners, don't check everything out first, and slap it in so, A. it looks like crap. 2. it doesn't run as well as it could and D. they end up having to take it apart AGAIN to replace something later on when it should have been done in the first place. yeah, so, that's my update as of now.

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              • #37
                really contimplating putting my Ls crank and rods in. lol. the more I read into it. the better its sounding. I really like my torque and low end power. better than an Ls/v and less work.
                Last edited by Ntegr8d; 11 Jan 2012, 16:18:23.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Ntegr8d View Post
                  really contimplating putting my Ls crank and rods in. lol. the more I read into it. the better its sounding. I really like my torque and low end power. better than an Ls/v and less work.
                  I put a b18C (JDM GSR), 99.9% stock (I put in one of those thermal intake manifold gaskets), into my 92 integra and it is great! It seems as though the LS cranks and rods would make a difference but I wouldn't bother with it. Especially if you are thinking of using the actual crank and rods from your current engine (much more downtime for your car and older rods and crank). I am only saying this because you mentioned that you are not looking for crazy HP gains.

                  I have some pictures from my swap at this link.

                  http://photos.distinpcs.com/Cars/B18...107781&k=89EvR

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                  • #39
                    The LS crank/rod swap is definitely worth the gains. But as stated, if you aren't fond of more downtime, using your current motor for parts is probably a bad idea.

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                    • #40
                      nice pics man. well documented. I too am taking process pics as I go.

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                      • #41
                        Nice swap! When I dive into my rebuild I will be removing all of the unecessary parts from under the hood. I never use AC or PS. But anyway your car looks great!!!!

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by 90blkteg View Post
                          Nice swap! When I dive into my rebuild I will be removing all of the unecessary parts from under the hood. I never use AC or PS. But anyway your car looks great!!!!
                          I am a lazy, lazy man haha. I was looking at the process of getting rid of PS and it was too much trouble to do it right.

                          My AC doesn't even work, I ended up just removing the belt so I could just have it fixed later if I felt like it. But I moved to Seattle so that'll never happen.

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