Readme

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Skunk 2 intake manifold installation

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Skunk 2 intake manifold installation

    Any one have any pics or tips for installing a skunk 2 IM on there teggy. If not i quess ill just have to do a write up on my install.

    and yes i searched through like 10 pages of thread w nothing.

  • #2
    new studs would be good with hondtata style gaskets

    do not use brown fuel rial spacers
    u need m6 bolts to bolt down fuelrail to im

    u need to modifiy the FPR
    it hits the runners

    u need to remove fitv

    Comment


    • #3
      you'll need the following:

      -3rd gen gsr fuel rail
      -ITR Throttle Cable Bracket

      And also what ^^ stated above.
      Originally posted by N FUL FX
      "OG" has little to do with age. It's just a compliment status to the guys who were around since G2IC was still in its somewhat infancy and have still stuck around today, whether or not they still own their Integras.

      Comment


      • #4
        from what i read during my searching i should be able to use the stock fuel rail till i get my aem.

        soontobe2gen
        What lenght do those m6 bolts need to be?
        Can you explain how i need to modify the FPR?( i do kinda see it might be a problem)
        With FITV, all i have to is to put angle hose barb between the coolant lines right?

        Integra gs
        your right on that TCB( The holes wont line up right)
        Last edited by BLKACK1; 04 Jul 2006, 01:28:02.

        Comment


        • #5
          when i installed mine i didn't have to do anything to the fitv, just tcb and fpr?? my aits hit the tcb so that was really the only reason for that, nuthin hit the runners..

          Comment


          • #6
            what engine is this goin on though???

            Comment


            • #7
              B18a1

              Comment


              • #8
                cut weere it bends
                so its feed stright

                dont know length just get some and check
                yah just reroute the fitv
                look at the coolent flow in helms and work it out

                u can use 1 bolt on the TB bracket
                i used it for 1 year
                and i abuse the shit outa the throttle


                what u can also do is use a dremel and make the hole into a slot
                for the last bolt

                Comment


                • #9
                  What is FITV? I have the same manifold and will be installing it soon.

                  Some one said the engine would lose power with this manifold. My set-up will be a B20B (low comp) with a 95 LS head and cams. It will be turbocharged with a 60/63 T3.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    FITV- fast idle thermo valve...and i've heard that they make your car slower to, but i don't think skunk2 would make sumthin to make your car slower...its just that ppl tend to forget that tuning is needed whenever anything is changed dealing w/ a-f mixtures.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      its slower becuase
                      it needs/like more

                      cams+good header+= will be good with the skunk2 manifold



                      fitv is used when its REALLY cold outside
                      to keep ur car from stalling

                      since im in CA i never had a problem with it
                      only thing is
                      when u start it cold
                      it starts at 2500 and within secounds it drops to 1000
                      which takes longer to warm up thats all

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        God dam rivercity how many projects you got ging on right now???

                        So hears the deal today i went to the dealership and ordered new collant hoses, Collant bar o-rings, Pcv hose, Injector seats and seals and an ITR throtle stay(bracket). Ialso decided to just say fuck it and ordered my AEM fuel rail and regulator. everything will be hear tomarrow.

                        As for the stock rail, It could be possibley be used, I just didnt like the way the injectors sat down into the bosses when the rail was tightend down.

                        one
                        Last edited by BLKACK1; 06 Jul 2006, 06:52:01.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          So after two days of staying up till 3 in the morning. Here we go, im not going to go over the whole step by step( you have to refer to the hayes for that.) But what problems i encountered.

                          So first off, I recomend replacing all vacuum lines, coolant hoses, and oil breather hoses under the manifold, PCV valve, O-rings for the water pump feed tube and fuel return line. From the dealership your talking about $125 w an ITR throtle stay. You can also just get generic coolant and vacuum lines, But certain hoses like the lower PCV hose have to be gotten from the dealership.

                          This refers to the picture below
                          A: Engine block to oil breather
                          B: to FITV ( is relocated to to IM due to removal of FITV)
                          C: Coolant Bypass to IM
                          D: To heater core inlet

                          The other hole in the to of the oil breather is the hose that goes up to the IM where the PCV valve plugs in. It snaped like a twig when the stock IM was removed( Both hoses where very hard and needed replacement)

                          you can barley see the coolant hoses barb to the IACV on the water pump feed pipe just to the left of the hose clamp on hose A:



                          Here is another angle with the new hoses( I left notes on some of these picture to kind of help explain stuff)
                          once again
                          A & B; Coolant bypass hoses to IM
                          I also recomend replacing the two o-rings for the coolant bar to the left.

                          Be very careful on the replacement of the heater core hoses.( Right hand side of pic) They are brass and can be bent out of shape very easily, if you do fuck them up the only way to fix them is replacement of the heater core($$$$$$$) I recomend taking a razor and cuting the hose on both sides and and use only your fingers to pry the hoses off. A little axel greese make the new hose slide on with ease.



                          Here is a picture of the back side of the IM
                          A: Coolant bar to the IACV
                          B: TB to the IACV( as you can see, this hose was ready to burst at any time.)
                          The other hose barb on the TB goes to the cylinder head coolant inlet from the radiator.



                          A couple of things about the manifold. Fitment was great but the center stud hole is not flat on the outside and the nut didn"t want to sit flat against the IM, which could probably lead to a vacume leak.( would recomend flatening it out with a file of dremel tool)

                          The original throttle stay could be modified to fit but I just oppted to get an ITR one(Perfect fit)

                          The throtle body fits fine, the throtle cable just clears the IM
                          to get the studs out of the stock IM, I just used the double nut method and they came right out.


                          The stock fuel rail could be used, BUT the FPR needs to be fliped over and even then the return line has to go over the IM and the vacuume line has to go between runners 3 & 4( Didn't like that at all) so I just spent the money for a AEM fuel rail and FPR for a 94 integra



                          Be sure to take your time puting in the fuel injctors into the rail, so that the green orings dont get pinched( happend to me and I was leaking fuel all over the place from injector #1 (use clean motor oil and just take your time pressing them in) I also replaced the seats and seals on all the injectors for the hell of it



                          The one problem i had with the fuel rail is that the stock fuel line only goes on one way and i bends toward the IM. Wasn't a huge problem just turned the fuel filter A lil bit and it fit fine( But i do plan on replacing it w stainless steel Fuel line that just goes strait out of the rail.)




                          Alot of carb cleaner and a shop vac will clean up the intake runners in the head quiet nicley



                          Here you can see the build up of crap in the stock intake manifold vs the Skunk 2



                          So to finish up

                          The mounting bolts for the Stock manifold are not used, But dont think this should be a problem due to the fact that the S2 is a lot lighter

                          Make sure you tighten all the manifold studs( At first start. I had a idle problem, It would jump from 1100 to 3100, but after tightening all the nuts down for the manifold and the TB. it drop to a bounce from 1100 to 2100)
                          I drove the car for a day to get all the air bubbles out of the system. with a adjustment of the Idle screw, the car idles at a steady 1k RPM

                          I still think i have a small Vacume leak somewhere due to the fact that i had too turn in the idle screw almost all the way. but as long as i get a steady idle at 1k rpm, i cant complain.

                          Well hope this help anyone that is getting ready to get a Skunk 2 and good luck on your install.
                          Last edited by BLKACK1; 11 Apr 2012, 06:48:14.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Nice write up! Did the Skunk 2 manifold give you any power or did you feel sluggish? Have you tested your car out at the track yet?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              in al onhesty i haventy realy been able to get on the gas, My clutch is going to shit on me. I did notice that the engine definatly breaths better. that gurgleing sound that come from the resinator(ebay cat) at about 4500 rpm has disapeared compleatly. and the engine seem a bit stronger in the upper rpms. But thats by the seat of my pant dyno. and we all know how acurate that is. I am in need of new studs and bolts two stiped on me and that might be where my air leak is coming from. im going to the dealer ship to get new studs and bolts and am going to replace all of them tommarrow.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X