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HELP! Timing belt jumped 5 teeth?

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    HELP! Timing belt jumped 5 teeth?

    I know it sounds weird. My car just died coming in my driveway 3 days ago. I had spark and fuel but the car did not even want to start, so I pulled the valve cover and took one look at the cam shaft pullys and noticed they were misalligned. I installed this engine in my G2 6k miles ago. It came from a wrecked 96 and had just gotten a timing belt job. It is a Gates timing belt. I just tore the whole thing down today to get to the tensioner pulley and it was tight. The entire belt itself did not seem that loose even compared against the old motor I have from the car. When I line up the crankshaft pully with the TDC mark, the exhaust side camshaft lines up with the mark but the the intake camshaft is turned 5 teeth clockwise. I removed the tensioner pully and noticed it has a little bit of play but not much at all. The belt does not even have the printing worn off the back side. I don't know if I should just set everything back to where it is supposed to be and put it all back together. Anybody have any suggestions or ever heard of this happening? All advice is appreciated.

    #2
    set it all back to tdc. use OEM timing belt only.

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      #3
      The tension must not have been set properly, or the tensionor bolt could have slipped enough to loosen the belt. I would reset the tension properly and replace the tensionor if needed.

      As far as Gates timing belts. Honda does the R&D for their vehicles and outsources outside companies to produce many of the parts to their specifications. Gates is one of the companies Honda outsources to. If Honda trusts them for other applications of their OEM parts, then I will trust them for my timing belt as long as there is a statement on the part that says, "meets or exceeds OEM specs". Gates is a division of Goodyear, and they have more experience in rubber than any other company.

      Now, I am not taking away from anyone who only buys OEM. There parts will always be top quality, but some people won't even use store bought window washer fluid or brake pads. Just like in the case of axles, OEM is $300 apiece, but companies like Raxles make them more affordable and don't break on 400 whp turbo applications. Aftermarket can be a reliable source for parts if research is done.

      I have 300K miles on my 'aftermarket mobile', and have done research before each purchase, and have never been let down yet.

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        #4
        I was looking into the Gates timing belt today, im assuming the jump was also related to the tensionor. Is this the only case of them messing up?? I know stock belts have jumped a number of times also, so I wont ignore the company just because of this one time.

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          #5
          no stock belts jump but for a reason, why buy cheap on something SO important?
          answer this, if it had been a few teeth over and you bent a valve/wrecked pistons/head would it be worth keeping?
          how much does that OEM cost? 60$. exactly just do it right dont risk the failure of a motor due to a shitty part.
          I had a timing belt jump a tooth ONE TOOTH, and no questions asked replaced it for fear my motor would be ruined.
          be smart

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            #6
            im with Sam92Teg on this one id rather pay half to quarter of the price on any aftermarket part that meets or exceeds oem spec. then goto a dealership and pay double or triple for posibly the same part and depending on what part shops you deal with your getting the exact same belt for half the price it just doesn't have honda stamped on the box.

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              #7
              Im with the whole aftermarket deal too, but if its a vital part for the engine, im only going OEM for safety reasons. Thats just how i am with my cars.

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                #8
                how can you be sure ur shitty no name company belt is as good or "exceeds".
                think of it this way, honda puts there all into making that timing belt last cause for whatever reason it fails and that car is under warranty guess who is buying the new motor...

                and if drag cars running 700+ hp are on oem parts... Ill stick by my oem.

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                  #9


                  ill take a quality aftermarket timing belt any day of the week ive used them on other cars before with nice results and ill use them again.

                  this was barely holding it self together when i changed my water pump a few weeks back. i pulled it apart by hand. there are a few other spots on the belt were it was starting to stretch and tear. the car was dealer maintained untell i bought it 2 years ago.

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                    #10
                    wow i thought mine was bad. mine started to split apart down the middle all the way around before i changed it last year. but damn good luck dude.

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                      #11
                      maybe you should have changed it earlier...

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                        #12
                        R6 im not tryin to save money, if Toda made a belt for the LS id have that shit. I just want the strongest belt I can find If I'm droppin all the money in my engine. If they made one out of kevlar id buy it.

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                          #13
                          A little update for y'all. I replaced the timing belt and tensioner and spring with OEM parts after the jump and have put 5k miles on it with no flaws. The tensioner was tight when I took it apart and the belt was flawless. The tensioner did have a little bit of play so I replaced it. Other than the fact that it was an aftermarket Timing Belt, I really do not know what would have caused the jump.

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                            #14
                            Smae thing happened to me, everything was tight but it some how jumped 7 teeth. Set it back and it ran good.

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