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vertical bar ES bushings issue

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  • #31
    Just wait till you test them out on a launch, wheel hop was reduced by 50%.

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    • #32
      So what's the officially correct way to do these? 2 pages of speculation with no correct pics is unhelpful.

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      • #33
        Anyone??

        Hour glass shaped to torque specs?

        What would the torque be?

        Do you torque with the car off the ground?

        Do you tighten each side evenly back and forth?

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        • #34
          The subframe has a hole that allows the torsion bar to pass through, the bushings flat sides should both be sitting flush on this surface. These ES bushings give the appearance of an hour glass whereas the factory units were not quite that shape. Put the flat surfaces on the inside of the crossmember, also the lips on the washers face away from the bushings, not towards them. Torque the torsion bar bolts to 76 Ft lbs and the locking nut to 32 Ft lbs.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by wise_old_dragon View Post
            The crossmember is the bracing that goes underneath your oilpan from front of the car to the rear and is connected to the front subframe. Don't get this confused with the subframe itself (which is also sometimes called the crossmember, but for the purpose of this thread I will call it the subframe). The subframe is a required component of your suspension unless you have a traction bar which replaces it entirely.

            The crossmember can be removed and the car can still be driven safely, but it is not recommended. To me, there are only two valid reason to remove the crossmember and that is if your are installing a traction bar setup or to solve header clearance issues.
            There are people who remove it purely for aesthetic reasons, but to me I find that stupid. However, it's good to note that GSR's did not come with a crossmember from factory. The crossmember was most likely designed for safety reasons, and it provides some extra rigidity so it should be left on unless it is totally necessary to take it off.
            DO NOT REMOVE THE CROSSMEMBER, the car cannot be driven safely without it. You are referring to the CENTER BEAM, do not confuse the two as they are not the same.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by mm171807 View Post
              The subframe has a hole that allows the torsion bar to pass through, the bushings flat sides should both be sitting flush on this surface. These ES bushings give the appearance of an hour glass whereas the factory units were not quite that shape. Put the flat surfaces on the inside of the crossmember, also the lips on the washers face away from the bushings, not towards them. Torque the torsion bar bolts to 76 Ft lbs and the locking nut to 32 Ft lbs.

              So your saying hourglass positioningf is incorrect? You would need to flip the around so the flat sides were together basically, but on each side of the subframe?

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