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'92 RS track and autocross thread with build, pictures & videos

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  • '92 RS track and autocross thread with build, pictures & videos

    CAR IS SOLD.



    This thread summarizes my 1992 Integra RS progression from autocross and track days to NASA Time Trials (TT). It includes a list of modifications, maintenance items, links to pictures and videos, and lessons learned.

    CAR
    - 1992 Acura Integra RS
    - 107k miles on original, unopened B18A1 engine
    - Driven to and from events
    - Emphasis is on reliability and performance balance
    - Chosen due to low cost to purchase and operate, as well as simplicity and practicality
    - NASA TTE with a dyno reclass
    - Allowed 2400 pounds minimum w/ 190 pound driver
    - Allowed up to 143 WHP

    CONTIGENCIES & SPONSORS
    - Konig wheels (Thanks for the deal on the Flatout 15x8 wheels!)
    - Roll Cage Components (Jim is the man!)
    - Hawk brakes (big thanks for the 2014-2015 racing pad contingency support!)
    - FastBrakes (thanks for supporting NASA racers!)
    - NecksGen Rev (thanks for supporting racers & instructors!)

    CURRENT MODIFICATIONS

    - Safety & Interior: Sparco Sprint V racing seats side mounted to modified OEM seat brackets, RCI latch & link 5-point harnesses, RollCageComponents U-weld 6-point roll bar, Ebay deep dish steering wheel, oil pressure & temperature gauges (VDO electric) using BWR sandwich plate, Raceequip front tow strap, custom front crash bar (1.5x0.120" DOM round tube and 1/8" thick angle iron bolted to stock mounts)

    - Wheels & tires: Konig Flatout 15x8 ET+25 with 205/50-15 Maxxis Victra RC-1 for dry track and Drag DR-21 running 195/55-15 BFG sport Comp-2 for rain and street, ARP extended wheel lugs, 20mm spacer with DR21s

    SUSPENSION & STEERING
    - Tokico Illuminas set to 4F/4R
    - Ground control coilover perches
    - 7" long 2.5" ID springs 12k front and 10k rear
    - Custom extended front shock mounts
    - Complete Energy Suspension bushings (except Prothane RTAB)
    - 1 washer under each extended bolt shimming the rear UCA to reduce camber
    - Stock swaybars w/ poly bushings
    - De-powered OE rack & energy suspension rack bushings

    BRAKES
    - FastBrakes front kit (11.6" rotors, Wilwood Dynapro calipers, DTC-60 pads)
    - Stoptech street rear pads with stock rear hardware
    - S.S. lines
    - Dust shields removed

    DRIVETRAIN
    - OEM Honda LSD
    - JDM GSR transaxle
    - Fidanza aluminum flywheel
    - Fast Line Performance (FPL) shifter & Energy Suspension shifter bushings
    - Polyurethane filled engine and transaxle mounts

    ENGINE
    - (3) different restrictor plates for cold, mild, and hot weather
    - Ebay "true" CAI w/ AEM dryflow filter
    - DC Sports header
    - 2.25" magnaflow glasspack
    - U-weld 2.25" catback (from mandrelexhaustsystems.com)
    - Magnaflow 4"x9" oval muffler
    - CTR N1 pulley
    - Ignition timing set to 18* BTDC
    - Champion 3-row racing radiator
    - Flyin Miata hood louvers
    - PCV catch can

    FLUIDS
    - Rotella 6T full synthetic 5W-40 engine oil (good anti-wear additive package and inexpensive)
    - Castrol GTX 10W-40 conventional oil in transaxle (shifts better than penn. synchromesh)
    - Valvoline Synthetic DOT4 brake fluid

    ALIGNMENT
    - About 5" front and 5.5" rear ride height, measured from body next to pinch welds
    - Resulting (unadjusted) front camber of about -3 degrees
    - Rear camber shimmed by 1 washer using "washer" method to about -2.5 degrees
    - Zero toe all around
    - Tire wear is very good and even across tread

    PICTURES
    - Build & modifications: http://s109.beta.photobucket.com/use...ntegra%20Build
    - Racing events: http://s109.beta.photobucket.com/use...tegra%20Events

    VIDEOS: https://www.youtube.com/user/mchuffman
    Last edited by hufflepuff; 01 Dec 2016, 00:36:12.

  • #2
    I will be uploading detailed lists of maintenance and weight reduction, as well as additional pictures and videos in the near future. Feel free to ask questions or comment on the car.

    I am really big on maintenance and place reliability as my number one priority. Well, i guess safety is number one... with reliability a close second. I will be addressing safety in the near future with the addition of racing seats and harnesses, as well as tackling the task of building a roll bar (perhaps cage) with a friend who is extremely good at welding.

    As far as history of the car, i only picked it up mid-way through last year. Within that time, i was able to perform the items listed above as well as participate in 2 rallycrosses, 4 autocrosses, and 1 track day. The car needed a LOT of maintenance to bring it up to track-worthyness. I picked up the DA mainly because it is a sporty chassis that can be built and operated for very cheap. It needs very little to have fun. It is also pretty easy to work on and parts and cheap, plentiful, and available. I love the simplicity. I also like the fact is came with an aluminum engine, 4-wheel double wishbone suspension and 4-wheel disc brakes. Not bad for 1992!

    As far as my history, i am new to Hondas (if you exclude sport bikes). Previous vehicles include an E36 M3 and Dodge SRT-4. I have been autocrossing regularly for three years have have done over a dozen track days. I also participated briefly in sportbikes track days and have done a few rallycrosses.

    I'm looking forward to sharing the build with everyone, as well as pics, videos, and lessons learned, as well as getting feedback from those with more Honda experience.

    Comment


    • #3
      Lightweight tractor battery install



      One of my goals has been to remove weight from the front end. Some folks move the battery inside the cockpit or in the rear hatch area. I decided to keep it in factory location for a few reasons.

      1. It's easiest to keep where it is
      2. It can't come loose or leak acid in the cabin
      3. It is lighter to not add extra battery cables
      4. It keeps some weight over the front right tire, helping preserve forward traction.

      I picked up a U1-format (lawn and garden) battery from K-mart for about $55. I got the diehard high power version to give me as much CCA as possible. It is rated at 340 CCA i think, and about 19 pounds, which is a heck of a lot lighter than stock. It starts the car GREAT.

      http://www.sears.com/diehard-gold-ga...p-02827185000P

      i mounted it in the stock location with minor modifications to the tie down rods and the battery cables:

      1. Because the battery is much shorter, i cut down the tie down rods and re-threaded them with a tap so i could use the stock tie down bar. The battery fits very securely with this arrangement.
      2. I used crimp-on copper terminal lugs and some nice bolts to attach the new lugs to the different style of battery terminal. I had just enough positive wire that i didn't need an additional length (i dremeled the factory clamp off, keeping the wire as long as possible). The negative lead was more than long enough. I used solder on the new copper terminals as well in addition to crimping for extra conductivity and security.

      Voila. This battery close to drops right in, easily has the starting power for my car even on cold morning, is cheap, and drops a lot of weight off the front end. Pictures are located in the "build & modifications" photo album linked above.

      Comment


      • #4
        List of weight reduction

        Here's a current list of weight reduction:

        - AC
        - PS (everything, just left the factory rack de-powered)
        - Gutted interior (panels from dash back, carpet, sound deadening, rear seats and belts, antenna, center dash and console, sound system, spare tire & jack, floor mats)
        - Lighter battery
        - Lighter header
        - Lighter flywheel
        - Lighter plastic-lens Ebay headlights (quite a difference)
        - Removed rear tow brackets
        - Removed intake manifold bracket
        - Removed factory wing

        I weighed in at 2250# dry without some of that weight reduction performed, so the current weight is closer to 2200#.

        Future plans:
        - JDM-style bumper supports (NOTE 7/7/14: Have fabricated custom front crash bar)
        - Rear wiper delete
        - Side moulding delete
        - Lighter seats & harnesses
        - Remove pad behind the dash
        - Used carbon fiber hood?

        Anything else i have overlooked?
        Last edited by hufflepuff; 07 Jul 2014, 12:37:17.

        Comment


        • #5
          The weight is not going to help your traction and the battery not meeting stock specifications may not be legal depending on the class you decide to compete in. I do agree moving the battery to the cabin or rear is not the best alternative, however pulling the battery tray, lowering the battery and mounting to the front frame rail is likely a better modification for a class with open relocation regulations.
          G2 Integra Parts for Sale Page

          Comment


          • #6
            Maintenance

            A car from 1992 will probably require quite a bit of maintenance to be ready for rough track use. My DA Teg was no different. Because running well is more important than going fast to me, i focused my first few months entirely on maintenance. Major items included:

            - Changed all fluids with quality replacements
            - Engine air filter
            - Timing belt and idler pulley (timing belt was VERY loose!)
            - Tune up (Plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor)
            - Valve cover gaskets (leaking)
            - Cooling system refresh (Radiator, cap, hoses, thermostat, water pump [which was weaping coolant!])
            - Left CV axle (torn boot)
            - Alternator belt
            - Cam plug and distributor o-ring (major leaks)
            - Brake refresh (quality rotors, calipers, brackets, hardware, racing pads, S.S. lines, and fluid)
            - Tie rod boots and front lower ball joint boots
            - Rear main crank seal (was leaking slightly)
            - Suspension bushings

            I picked up a Honda LSD and decided to take care of clutch as it was grabbing very high up. It turned out to be worn to the rivets. While is was in there, i refreshed other drivetrain items:

            - Exedy OEM clutch & pressure plate
            - Fidanza flywheel
            - Transmission output seals
            - Transmission shift select shaft seal
            - Shift linkage & boot
            - Throwout bearing and pilot bearing

            Someone snapped the lower starter bolt off in the block, which turned out to be one of the most annoying parts of the tranny service. i had to drill out the bolt as an extractor failed. I damaged the first half in of threads in the block in the drilling process. Luckily, the hole goes another half inch deeper into the block. I used my M10x-1.25 tap to extend the threads into the block and i picked up a longer M10-1.25x120 bolt from Honda (it's a common honda automatic transmission bolt) and the extra reach made it to the new threads.
            Last edited by hufflepuff; 20 Apr 2015, 12:05:37.

            Comment


            • #7
              Filling your OEM motor mounts

              In pretty much every FWD car i have owned, the motor and tranny mounts have been shot, leading to sloppy driveline feel and excessive movement during hard launches, fast shifts, and on/off throttle transitions. I turn to my trusty polyurethane roof and flashing sealant to firm things up:



              I start by thoroughly degreasing the mounts. Next, i let them dry. Then i fill all of the cavities with the polyurethane and pack it in and smooth it out with a flat putty knife. Wear some latex gloves!

              Curing can take up to a week, so plan on the car being out of service for a while. The alternative is to buy replacement mounts and fill those and let them cure and then pop them in. One tube will usually do two mounts.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by DB2-R81 View Post
                The weight is not going to help your traction and the battery not meeting stock specifications may not be legal depending on the class you decide to compete in. I do agree moving the battery to the cabin or rear is not the best alternative, however pulling the battery tray, lowering the battery and mounting to the front frame rail is likely a better modification for a class with open relocation regulations.
                I believe my battery changes are not H4 legal, but they are H2 legal. It is also legal with the CDC autocross group and (i believe) with NASA time trials. It made a nice improvement in front end grip, dropping that weight off the front end. Pretty cheap and easy too.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Nice, I have the same size battery in my car......it's not a daily driver, and sometimes does not have enough umph to start the car after a week. Somewhere around the same CCA(340).

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by VI Massive View Post
                    Nice, I have the same size battery in my car......it's not a daily driver, and sometimes does not have enough umph to start the car after a week. Somewhere around the same CCA(340).
                    I've never had starting problems, but if the car is going to sit for more than a week i put a smart maintainer on the battery.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Good stuff! I enjoy seeing people who actually USE their cars, and better yet, use 'em for RACING! I would say though, you gotta get rid of that stupid photobucket account, the photos are tiny and their UI is horrible for showing other people your pics. Give Flickr a try, or there are some other services I'm sure too. Can't wait to see the progression of this car.
                      Track Project DB2 #896
                      LeMons Project DA9
                      My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I am looking for opinions on whether on not to go with a modified intake for this car. Nasa-TT penalizes a few points for a modified air intake. Some say that an intake can give solid gains, while others say factory honda intakes are actually pretty good. Is there consensus for the DA integra?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          What's the exact wording of the rule regarding intakes? And what other mods are you allowed to do? I'm assuming you're talking about a relatively stock class? There can definitely be gains by adding an intake, whether it's worth it or not that's hard to say. Are the "points" you're talking about points which count against your time in the TT or are they points which help class the vehicle? If they're points that go against your time then it may not be worth it, but if they are points used for classing then it would depend on where your car currently sits, if you have extra points before getting bumped into another class then you might as well add an intake. I figure it's smart to max out your points to get the best possible car that's legal for your class.
                          Track Project DB2 #896
                          LeMons Project DA9
                          My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Colin View Post
                            What's the exact wording of the rule regarding intakes? And what other mods are you allowed to do? I'm assuming you're talking about a relatively stock class? There can definitely be gains by adding an intake, whether it's worth it or not that's hard to say. Are the "points" you're talking about points which count against your time in the TT or are they points which help class the vehicle? If they're points that go against your time then it may not be worth it, but if they are points used for classing then it would depend on where your car currently sits, if you have extra points before getting bumped into another class then you might as well add an intake. I figure it's smart to max out your points to get the best possible car that's legal for your class.
                            NASA TT assesses points based on modifications, so doing an intake will mean less points for other mods. But you are exactly right, i'll try to use every last point without bumping to the next class.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Custom Exhaust Completed

                              I spent about half a day installing my custom 2.25" mandrel exhaust system. Here are the specs:

                              - Piping kit is from mandrel exhaust systems (http://www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com...EXHAUST/Detail)
                              - Center muffler is 2.25" magnaflow glasspack
                              - Rear muffler is Magnaflow part # 12225, ordered from advanceautoparts
                              - 2.25" flange to mate to header outlet

                              The piping kit comes with the flange at the cat, hangers, clamps, and the required tubing. The ends are flared so that a slip fit can be used between pieces. The flange hole diameter was larger than my center pipe, so i cut four slits in the tubing and expanded it with a tubing expander to yield a more gradual step-down and welded the slits closed. I was able to utilize all factory hanger points. While i was down there i replaced all of the rubber exhaust hangers.

                              The angles near the rear axle were tricky so i actually had to cut small wedges out of two of the 90 degree bends and re-weld to get the right angles. I welded everything from the cat to the axle together and then used clamps for the rest to allow me maximum adjustability and to swap mufflers if desired. Overall, it is tucked up pretty close to the body and fitment is pretty nice.

                              I was originally using a dynomax super turbo muffler, but it turned out more raspy than i expected (i used this muffler on another car with a cat and it was very deep and mellow), so i went with a magnaflow muffler. Going to a test pipe is a likely culprit for the raspyness. At WOT it wasn't overly loud, but had a lot of resonance and rasp. By comparison, the magnaflow is slightly louder @ WOT and drones a little more cruising, but has almost no resonance or rasp. I feel its perfect for an occasionally street driven weekend car.

                              New magnaflow muffler:

                              MORE PICTURES: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hufflep...7632504107497/
                              VIDEOS TO COME SOON
                              Last edited by hufflepuff; 16 Jun 2014, 15:11:20.

                              Comment

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