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Track Build - Cindi

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  • TurboG2teg311
    replied
    Originally posted by billabongrob View Post
    Well, I made it out.
    Glad to see it. Is this your first on track experience?



    Originally posted by billabongrob View Post
    Drove 45 minutes to the police academy, did a couple of runs, and then drove it home. All... open... header.
    You're nuts.

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  • billabongrob
    replied
    Well, I made it out. Drove 45 minutes to the police academy, did a couple of runs, and then drove it home. All... open... header. The only casualty was my speedometer cable, blew right out of where it plugs into the cluster. New one on order.

    First impressions, the suspension was on full soft when I ran first. Realized that, adjusted front and rear to full soft and then down 1 1/2 turns in the front, 1 turn back and then didn't mess with it for the rest of the day. With the suspension on full soft, I was able to rotate the car really well with some lift. I'm sure there's some pictures of me full lock out there. Also, this was an auto-x and I've never auto-x'd before lol Car ran great, but the fuel pressure was really high... like 50 lbs high. Also, when I filled up to the top, it seems my car pissed about a half gallon out from a vent that goes into the tank so I'll have to take a look.

    Next time I hit the track, I'll adjust the suspension more. Needs more camber up front, but I haven't decided on a kit yet. Now for some pics! One of me, and one of my buddy who normally drifts. His quote, I never thought I'd have so much fun in an NA FWD car. It just goes where you point it!

    First Drive by Rob Heckel, on Flickr
    txdf january by Rob Heckel, on Flickr

    Leave a comment:


  • Colin
    replied
    Not bad weights for the car just being put together and no balancing yet. I've never heard of that muffler before, I'll be interested to see how you like it, and I'd love to see some pics once it's done

    Leave a comment:


  • billabongrob
    replied
    Yeah, I'm actually going to toss 30 day temp tags and some insurance on it and take it to some goofy auto-x/drift thing. I figure if it can make a 25 minute trip there, get flogged on all day, and make it home, then it should be ready for the track. Right now it's open header, but I put an order in for the speedfactory lt-5 muffler and plan on getting it installed next week. Also going to rewire the battery relocation and do a kill switch. I still need to put a brake line on since one is rubber (front pass side). Do a flush with motul 600 and see what crappy brakes are on the car. Hopefully I'll post up a little more. I found myself very disheartened when I got shafted on my transmission, but I felt a ton better when I was able to repair it and got the car driving.

    Leave a comment:


  • TurboG2teg311
    replied
    Car is coming together well. Are you getting out on track this year?

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  • billabongrob
    replied
    More updates. Sorry it's been a while, got married, bought a house, graduated college, etc...
    I finally got to drive the car, just around the block. I ended up taking the transmission apart and putting my Quaife back in. I believe the adjustment for the Mugen was off or something, but it kept binding up when trying to drive. I sold my RS-R exhaust. I'll be rewiring the battery shortly, putting padding on the roll cage, and wiring in the kill switch within the next 7 days or so. I'll also be getting an exhaust shortly. Will probably opt to come out of the passenger side with no modification to the bumper. Once it was running, some friends put the car on scales for me. Keep in mind, I just eye balled the settings on the coilovers. No changes have been made yet.

    Weights without a driver #2215, cross 47.3

    Weight with a friend a little bigger than me.


    Hopefully next will be video of me driving for the first time.

    Leave a comment:


  • billabongrob
    replied
    Long time no see G2IC! I installed a Blox adjustable FPR. (These things fit like poop, I siliconed the hell out of it) I cranked it all the way up and my fuel pressure hangs around 45lbs. I believe I have another leak somewhere, because I'm loosing pressure, but it's something that I can troubleshoot moving forward. I changed all of the injector gaskets. I also added a AN fitting directly to the fuel rail, and have an inline 30 micron filter. I put 5 gallons of fresh 93 and now the car idles pretty damn smooth. Ignore my ugly bay, I'll get around to cleaning it up soon. Wiring is still everywhere!

    I also installed the rear extended studs and open end extended lugs. I removed the brake dust shields, found out I have ES trailing arm bushings, goodridge lines are all in good condition, and the rear bearings are really clean. I also think there are Hawk blues in the rear, so one less thing I need to dork with off the bat. Pictures, videos, etc... (The first two are videos, clicky)

    Thursday workday by Rob Heckel, on Flickr

    Thursday workday by Rob Heckel, on Flickr

    Thursday workday by Rob Heckel, on Flickr

    Thursday workday by Rob Heckel, on Flickr

    Thursday workday by Rob Heckel, on Flickr

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  • billabongrob
    replied
    Picked up the transmission today. The guy who did the work took the LSD apart and made sure everything was in working order. The clutch plates looked good, etc... Needed to switch over to a newer GSR/ITR 4.4 (same as oem in the GSR) FD so the LSD would fit. The carbon synchrotech carbons are in. Here it is looking much cleaner.




    Realized I had a resistor box that was unnecessary, but just continued to add confusion to this build. I got rid of it. In the process, switched to OBD2 injector connectors and injectors. They're easier to work with/around, in my opinion. When moving wires, one of the MAP wires literally fell out of it's crimp, so I resoldered all of of that.



    Anyways, none of this really helped with the car running like sh*t. Going to start pulling/swapping intake parts from the TB to the manifold and see which mix gives me the best results.

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  • billabongrob
    replied
    GSR Case opened up. Everything seems to be in good working order with this trans. The one in the car now grinds third, so it will probably get the same treatment next...
    Synchrotech carbon synchros on order, even though the brass ones looked fine. (Would have been nice to know before my swap...) Likely putting in a Mugen LSD.
    B17A1 Transmission opened up by Rob, on Flickr

    Very clean case. Looks like someone took pretty good care of this thing. The sludge is likely just from it being on the shelf for 2 or 3 years.
    B17A1 Transmission opened up by Rob, on Flickr

    Until Wednesday I suppose, otherwise my girlfriend is going to murder me...

    Leave a comment:


  • billabongrob
    replied
    One of the parts I've been putting off and dreading was painting the interior/rollcage. Tackled it this weekend. Went to harbor freight and grabbed a HVLP gun for $30. 1 Gallon of RustOleum grey. Sanded and scuffed the interior, wiped down with thinner. Sprayed away. Didn't come out great, but it's done! If anyone does this, painters tape was so weak. Use tin foil! Easy to manipulate and get into odd places... Still a few more spots I need to do with a spray can, but the majority is done.
    Interior paint by Rob, on Flickr
    Interior paint by Rob, on Flickr

    I need to get the majority of the stuff out of the passenger side door as well. I haven't tackled the Power Locks & Windows removal yet, but there's a ton of wiring for those that can be removed. Also, there's tint on the windows so I'll be using aircraft stripper on those to get it off. This is why it wasn't taped up. Also need a new windshield at some point.
    Also, turns out I have a resistor box, presumably from when it was boosted. I'll be removing this soon and likely switching to the OBD2 injectors that came with the B20. I prefer the OBD2 clips over the OBD1 with clips that are easy to lose.

    Until next time!

    Leave a comment:


  • Colin
    replied
    Yeah, that definitely looks a bit crammed. But your solution should work just fine, especially since the biggest worry is pulling out not having the pin fall down so even if there's some kind of failure due to the epoxy or lack of washer it's a failsafe sorta situation.

    Leave a comment:


  • billabongrob
    replied
    Here's the picture of how high the pin is. You can see that the actual locking mechanism could go higher into the pin.
    Aerocatch Close by Rob Heckel, on Flickr

    Here you can see that I have the pin cranked to it's lowest setting. Again, ignore the JB Weld.
    Aerocatch Pin by Rob Heckel, on Flickr

    I feel like you, of all people, could make this work in a cleaner way. If you want any additional measurements, let me know. I can take some if need be.

    Last night, more dry ice. Got the tar off of the wheel wells. Duct Tape, razor blade, and plastic painting drop clothes helped a ton with this so we wouldn't have the hold it on.
    I've pretty much given up on the tar that is furthest forward on the shift tunnel and the passenger floor board. The juice is no longer worth the squeeze up there. Hopefully, interior paint next. Picked up a Harbor Freight HVLP gun with a regulator. I'm going to do Rustoleum with a little thinner in it. The color will be as close to the exterior as possible, unless I change my mind. I've also heard some tips about putting the 3m rock protector stuff that would normally go on clear bras, around the high traffic areas of the cage. We'll see how much, and where, the foam guard lines up when I'm finished. Also not sure how it would react in the event of a fire. The last thing I want is flaming adhesive sticking to me...

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  • Colin
    replied
    Thanks, I'd appreciate it!

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  • billabongrob
    replied
    No, didn't even think to take a picture. I'll take a couple when I get back out to the garage on Wednesday. (As long as no one makes fun of my sweet sweet JB Weld lol) I think that you might be able to remedy it by mounting further toward the middle.
    Also, we probably had to take 1.5-2 inches off of the threaded pins so as to not hit the headlight.

    What I think you could do is just put a large washer on top, that the bottom, but not the top, of the pin will fit through, then use the rubber insulators to hold the pin steady against the head of the pin which is a bit wider that the rest of it.

    This will make sense when I send over pictures.

    Leave a comment:


  • Colin
    replied
    Well that sucks. Any chance you have a pic of the pin installed in the radiator support to show how high it sticks up and the amount you had to trim?

    Leave a comment:

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