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Red db2

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  • Red db2

    Just picked it up yesterday for 1000 bucks it's got 176000 miles runs but motor knocks think its a bent rod or spun bearing hoply can be repaired so I can keep the original motor just needs a little loving the pics is it next to my 93 gs
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  • #2
    Originally posted by Integra31 View Post
    Just picked it up yesterday for 1000 bucks it's got 176000 miles runs but motor knocks think its a bent rod or spun bearing hoply can be repaired so I can keep the original motor just needs a little loving the pics is it next to my 93 gs
    Nice pick up here in my place they priced them too much even the ls and rs with salvaged title cost more than your Db2 lol.

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    • #3
      Appreciate it I was glad to finally find one and for the price i thought it was a scam lol but it wasn't I got the title transferred the next day now in about a month I'll start taking the motor apart and can hoply restore if cranks toast I'll probly have to just drop a b18c in it but I want the original motor so hoply crank is good I'll take lots of pics and stuff when I'm tearing it apart and puting back to geather I'll keep y'all updated and I was thinking turboing it later on what do y'all think what internals would I need?

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      • #4
        If you're wanting internals for that motor, be ready to shell out some serious dough.

        Only one aftermarket company make off-the-shelf replacement rods for the B17 and they cost around the neighborhood of $1,000.

        I'd opt for reconditioning the stock rods, maybe throw some ARP hardware on them, and call it good. Stock rods (with said upgraded hardware) should be good for 300+whp.

        Add in some ARP main bolts and head studs, you'd have yourself a pretty mean setup that should handle boost relatively easy.

        The main issue I possibly see is the mileage.... High mileage motors tend to have cylinders that are not perfectly round anymore... they oblong out due to the motion of the rotating assembly. If the motor needs anything more than a hone, the stock pistons may no longer be of the correct size, needing aftermarket replacements. If you need aftermarket pistons, you'll need rods too. Which brings me back to the super-spendy aftermarket B17 rods.

        Great motor, just some little nuances and oddities that can make it a costly powerplant.

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        • #5
          Ok I'm deff going with apr hardware I think the last owner split the head from the block from over Reving and allowed water to get into it and I was told I spun a rod bearing and also told I had a bent rod from others so if I do have a bent rod can it be ordered from acura? Im going to replace the rings the bearings hone on the cylinders if I run into bigger stuff like having to bore it or needing a new crank then I'll prob give up on the b17 and just drop the b18c in it I'll find out when I pull block apart I appreciate the info more on the breakdown and rebuild to come soon

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          • #6
            http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

            Part#6 in the illustration.

            There is not a notation saying it's discontinued, so you may well be in luck man. Really not a bad price either.

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            • #7
              After thinking about it, you still may be ok even if the motor needs to be slightly bored.

              Honda does offer slightly oversized pistons. The ones for the B17 are discontinued... But you may be able to throw LS ones in there, or B18C1s . Something that would still keep the compression ratio low enough for boost.

              The issue with that, is going to be the small-end of the rod.

              Not all B pistons/rods are interchangeable. Some small-ends are thicker, not fitting certain pistons. The rod end can be milled if necessary, etc etc..

              I'm just spitballing here though, giving you some things to think about.

              Take one step at a time, I'm not meaning to overwhelm you lol.

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              • #8
                Well it's good they still make the rods for it but sucks they don't make the pistons hoply I don't have to bore then I appreciate all of you help it's very helpful lol I'll keep posted when I start roping the block apart

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                • #9
                  So I couldn't wait to pull the motor out so I decided to just drop the oil pan real quik and found the bad bearing the crank didn't look bad tho here's the pic of it

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                  • #10
                    image.jpg

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