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Long build in process.

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  • Originally posted by Deceptakhan View Post
    So much win! I want to redo my gauges now
    Doooo iiiiiit!

    I hooked power to the old cluster, and this updated one at the same time.. no question it looks massively better... But super bright. The potentiometer is definitely needed or it will blow your eyes out at night.

    I will see if I can get a decent picture of the two on straight 12V power. Stock looks sooo dim and dingy.

    Originally posted by ProMcCown View Post
    Can't go wrong with some Top Gear lol.
    I should specify.. the is TopGear-UK we're talking about!

    My main word of caution for anyone intending to do this is be super careful of the clear plastic window on the fuel gauge. If it gets scuffed it will look pretty bad.

    Ok, it was killing me...

    Stay tuned for cluster-light mod, version2.
    Last edited by unified112; 05 Apr 2014, 05:41:48.


    • Top Gear UK is the only one I watch so yeah, lol.


      • Version 1 never even made it on the car and already version 2? Lol

        I think you'll like the cool white a lot better. It's much more modern looking.


        • Definitely a little more modern now!


          • Looks great!


            • I need to do it now.... looks very modern indeed


              • Looks good. I can agree with that stupid low fuel window scratching very easily. I barely nicked mine and it is very noticeable.


                • So, I polished up the cover for the cluster and got it nice and clean again. We have a small 3" pneumatic detail buffer that made it super easy.

                  Also, got a temporary registration permit so I can make it to the meet... Decided to put a dent in the list of things to do.

                  The carpet was nasty, of course. I've never spilled a drink in this one, yet clearly someone has!

                  Carpet and all seats/panels removed. The floor wasn't all that bad. Around the e-brake was gross though. I gave it all a quick wipedown and decided to run the RCA/remote/Power cables for the system I'll eventually have. Sadly, when running the wires under the firewall insulator, it was saturated... With coolant. Apparently my heater core is shot. Which explains why I do consume coolant, and why I still smell faint coolant. Fml. The plan now is to drive it as little as possible.

                  I've never really gotten clear confirmation of what stock accomodations there are for the arm rest.. well this can serve for a solid answer as far as '92-93 coupes go. Under the carpet there was a 10mm bolt on each side, for the front holes. In the rear there are spot welds, but also a dimple that identifies where you need to drill.

                  I didn't take any pictures of the underside, but it's tight-quarters unless you drop the exhaust. You're dealing with not only the piping, but the heatshield as well. There was not enough room for my fat fingers to put the nut on.. I had to put the nut in an open-end wrench and get it started. Then I could reach up with a finger and spin it on. Being that there isn't a ton of torque needed for these, I put some tape on the inside of the car, to hold the bolt head in place. And tightened from underneath.

                  I decided to put the red-stitched ITR shift boot on since I had the console out. Not bad... I need to clean the stock one up because the all black is a nice look too. You do have to swap the frame because DA and DC shift boots aren't the same.

                  All back together.. well, kinda. The dash is still tore apart because of the cluster and all. It's so nice to have an arm rest now. FTW!

                  Last edited by unified112; 13 Apr 2014, 15:40:01.


                  • I finished up a few things today. Door sills, with new hardware. Finished fully installing the interior panels. Diagnosed and fixed an exhaust rattle. Installed the two smaller splash shields.

                    I made sure that everything I installed had every screw and bolt to secure it down. I was getting a ton of interior rattles.. come to find out when I pulled the cluster, the dash was held together with maybe half the fasteners. Really hoping to rid the car of miscellaneous rattles and vibrations.

                    NAPA part number, for anyone interested.

                    These fasteners are the biggest whore in the world. Such a major pain in the ass. This was the best method I could think of.

                    I did take a drive as well because I wanted to see how the temperature and idle acted after doing a lengthy (60mi) drive. Temp stayed solid, idle wasn't too bad, but something needs sorted out.
                    Last edited by unified112; 14 Apr 2014, 06:16:38.


                    • Nice updates! You're banging through that to do list! I personally used self tapping screws to mount the armrest in my db1 because I didn't want to deal with dropping the exhaust or trying to be inside and under the car at the same time. I'm lazy though.

                      Car looks great!


                      • Thanks for that part number on those little metal clips, I need to buy some of those.
                        Track Project DB2 #896
                        LeMons Project DA9
                        My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P


                        • Originally posted by rollinmyda View Post
                          Nice updates! You're banging through that to do list! I personally used self tapping screws to mount the armrest in my db1 because I didn't want to deal with dropping the exhaust or trying to be inside and under the car at the same time. I'm lazy though.

                          Car looks great!
                          you shouldn't have to move the exhaust to mount the armrest, the two hole that aren't threaded has threaded inserts to pop in.

                          Nice updates sean, i like how the cLuster turned out


                          • There were no holes at all on my db1 but its a 90 rs. It only had dimples.


                            • Having the front pre-drilled and threaded was nice. Having to jack the car way up and get undetneath it for the rears sucked. But, it is solid now and so nice to have.

                              Looked at prices for a new heater core...
                              OEM has a list price of $450, but $380 from online vendors.
                              Keystone has one for $190
                              AutoZone is $80-160

                              Add it to the list of stuff to replace!

                              Speaking of, not sure if anyone remembers.. emblems. Mine were all old and pitted. Last year I bought the discontinued the rear "Integra" badge. The other three were still available. Since then, the only availability goes:
                              - Front A May Have Been Discontinued
                              - Rear A Available
                              - Rear INTEGRA badge Discontinued
                              - Rear ACURA badge Discontinued

                              That being said, on eBay right now there is a seller that has 10 brand new "ACURA" badges. I scooped one up! If anyone needs a new one, I suggest looking now on eBay. Since it's discontinued you'll likely never get another chance. New badges look so minty!
                              Last edited by unified112; 15 Apr 2014, 08:09:25.


                              • Originally posted by unified112 View Post
                                Definitely a little more modern now!

                                how much will you charge me to do this? i've been wanting to do this for a while!