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  • Similar here. Did you find a lot of white powdery deposits in the thermostat housing when you replaced it?

    Most of my car, including the cooling system, is 100% stock. Radiator to be replaced soon, but everything is original right now, even the thermostat (80K miles, and car was a DD for only six years). Coolant was replaced two years ago, and again this fall, and was fairly clean.

    Nevertheless, at idle my radiator fan only cycles normally some of the time.
    I recently removed the A/C fan, but this made no difference, good or bad.

    I did find some dirty or corroded terminals on the radiator relay which is located between the radiator and the battery tray, cleaned with Deoxit, regreased, which seemed to make a difference, b/c I noticed the fan running more often, but still not consistently.

    At the moment, I have two things left to look at, the radiator timer, and the thermostat housing, to see if enough crud has collected there to perhaps keep the thermostat from closing completely. By crud, I mean the white stuff you find in all similar older cars and cooling systems unless they were flushed regularly. A second bad connection is possible, but not likely.

    If the thermostat is basically working, but not closing down completely, there would be more than the required amount of coolant flow at idle, so the engine temp would stay fairly low, and therefore the temp switch would never turn the fan on.

    Btw, our temp gauge is only an approximate representation of the engine temperature, I think it stays in one position when the temperature is within a certain range.

    edit:

    The gauge stays in that 11 o'clock position when the coolant temp is between 85 and 100 degrees C. (graph on page 23-111 of the manual)

    ECT switch cycles on/off around 90C, +/- a couple degrees, so the coolant temperature normally stays in the range where the temperature gauge needle is stable.
    Last edited by PMI; 04 Nov 2014, 23:50:01.

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    • There really wasn't much of any white deposits in the thermo housing or any of the corresponding components... but, before I bought the car I was notified that the system was recently flushed and a new radiator installed, so that may have been why.

      I'm under the assumption that my system is currently functioning correctly... But I believe that I may re-do some of the wiring and do away with the Timer and other relays in the system, and make my system mimic that of the Canadian Integra's, and the ITR system.

      After the (limited) research I did, the conversion is super simple and all it takes is for two wires to be de-pinned from the harness and connected to eachother.

      This mod would remove most any relay from the system and rely solely on the Fan Switch. Seems much more reliable in my opinion.

      I believe Colin did this to his vehicle as well.

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      • Originally posted by unified112 View Post
        This mod would remove most any relay from the system and rely solely on the Fan Switch. Seems much more reliable in my opinion.
        Seems like a good plan.

        Make sure we have the same p/n fan switch as the Canada version. You will be relying on the contacts in that switch to break contact with a lot of current flowing, and I have no idea if that switch can do it reliably for many cycles.

        Normally, you would use a relay b/c the contacts are designed to make and more importantly to break a hefty current. When I looked at the wiring diagrams, I could not figure out why there was such a big difference between US and CA wiring.

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        • Yup, I've had my car wired such that I did away with the RFCM and relays for quite some time. The car does only get rare use though so it's not like it cycles the switch daily or anything.
          Track Project DB2 #896
          LeMons Project DA9
          My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

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          • I thought about doing that when I saw the simpler Canada wiring diagram, but in my case it was just a dirty or corroded connector at the relay. A little squirt of Deoxit solved the problem for me, same as the fog light on that side.

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            • Good point there...

              My fan switch is newly replaced with a BuddyClub unit, I'd hope it can keep up with the cycles. I'm in the same boat as Colin in that the car is most definitely not a daily driver.

              Perhaps some more research would be needed to see what PN was used for the ITR and other models to see if there was indeed a change to correspond with the wiring.

              Thanks for pointing that out man!

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              • A quick search shows that the ITR used the same switch as all other Integras (at least those that are mounted on the thermostat housing), as well as various other models.

                So provided that the BuddyClub unit is as good as OE, it would be fine. An OE unit may be in my future lol.

                Again, thanks for the thought.. Always good to get another point of view! Good ol G2IC!

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                • Awesome info! That's one project I really want to do but keep forgetting to. If you happen to get it done on your car before I get to it make sure to take pics!

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                  • The p/n that comes up for me for a '90 LS is "THERMO UNIT (DENSO) - 1990 Acura INTEGRA HATCHBACK (37750PH2014)".

                    If it works in the circuit, and the car is not a daily driver, I think it probably does not matter. Just don't inadvertently bypass the fuse...

                    If there is some reason for keeping the fan on its own circuit (some people here are using after market fans with a different electric motor), it should be possible to keep the fan relay, and wire the switch in series with the relay coil, instead of as a replacement for the relay contact. That way, the thermal switch applies power to the relay coil, the relay closes, fan turns on. In other words, the timer and any extra logic are bypassed, but the fan remains isolated.

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                    • ECT switch for 89-91 and 92+ blocks is a completely different design so the p/n's will inherently be different.
                      Track Project DB2 #896
                      LeMons Project DA9
                      My OG DA9, Wrecked, Stripped, R.I.P

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                      • Yes PMI, Colin is correct... The '90-91 Integra has them mounted on the back of the block. The plug differs as well as the location, so it's a different animal all together.

                        Originally posted by rollinmyda View Post
                        Awesome info! That's one project I really want to do but keep forgetting to. If you happen to get it done on your car before I get to it make sure to take pics!
                        Fat chance with that, lol... I won't be working on it anytime soon. But it is super easy. I believe that I even drew up a basic schematic for it. Provided you want to just use the factory wiring, it's easy.

                        Two wires simply need to be de-pinned and connected to each other. That will mimic the ITR wiring. Remove the relays and it should be done and over with.

                        Now, if you desire to strip the rest of the unused harness, or tuck it all... Then that's where it will get more time consuming. But the actual "conversion" is cake.

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                        • Originally posted by unified112 View Post
                          Yes PMI, Colin is correct... The '90-91 Integra has them mounted on the back of the block. The plug differs as well as the location, so it's a different animal all together.
                          Thanks for pointing that out. My list of differences is growing (sigh).

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                          • I sent you an email man! Getting a copy of that schematic you drew up would be awesome if possible!

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                            • Hey man, sorry about the delay in replying. Work has been kicking my ass this last week. When I get off work this afternoon I'll be sure to put something together for you!

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                              • What up Sean

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