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Long build in process.

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  • So far ahead of me and my 93 GS-R. Gives me hope to keep pushing a little bit at a time and get it the way it should be. Loving the red cover, definitely will go red on mine... Or black.... Or some else but probably most definitely red lol


    • I've enjoyed the red, but I'm really looking forward to putting my black one on.

      Wrinkle black is a little more subtle than the red imo.


      • So recently I have noticed an issue with the passenger side window switch. It would roll the window down, but not up. Though using the driver/master window switch, it would do both up and down. In the FSM they lay out the process to test the switches and narrow down issues. After checking continuity, I realized I had a couple different issues on both switches.
        While waiting for a used one to arrive, we figured it would be a good idea to tear apart the old switches and see if there is any remedy to the old age of the switches.
        Honestly, they're protected really well... Every switch has a 'condom' of sorts that keeps out debris and grime from your fingers. But the issue mine were having was carbon buildup, and actually melted plastic getting in the way of a couple of the contacts. Those areas that weren't getting good contact were getting hot.

        Anyway, I took some photos of the process and figured it may be of use to someone.

        First off... The switches come apart by prying on the side 'ears' while pulling the actual switch up. There are no springs that will go flying, so don't worry about that. Moreso, just make sure you don't pry hard enough to break the little ears. Repairing that wouldn't be fun.

        When you remove the switch, you'll see four contact patches, with two rocker tabs. The tabs themselves come out and you can clean them up with scotchbrite and contact cleaner. None of mine were pitting, but you could tell the ones that had gotten hot had discolored quite a bit. The contact pads had indents from the rocker tabs, but nothing that was preventing continuity.

        Buildup around the four contacts was mainly isolated to just carbon buildup. But one of them had a significant buildup of melted plastic.

        You can grease the springs in the switches themselves if you'd like. I just used dielectric with a small flatblade to push it into the areas that were exposed.

        Here is a picture of the driver/master switch for a coupe. Notice the relay for the Auto-Down feature. The sedan master switch would have four switches.. obviously..

        After generally cleaning all of the contact points with white scotchbrite and lubricating it all with dielectric grease, we were able to check continuity again. All of the paths were continuous as laid out in the FSM (Page ~206 in the Electrical section).
        Last edited by unified112; 29 May 2019, 05:09:40.


        • Glad you got it figured out, my switches stopped working for a while so I ended up switching to manual doors so it made it a lot simpler.